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Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports

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The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.

Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
  • Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
  • Car Specifications
  • Reviews of JDM Cars
  • Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
  • Parts and Suggestions
  • Engine Information
  • Car Maintenance
  • Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community.  Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.

Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased.  There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.

Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry.  We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.

This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.

We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.

If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here.

We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.

-- JDMVip.com Team

Other Information About The JDM Car Market

  • Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
  • Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions. Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
  • Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
  • Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
  • JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
  • Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
  • JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
  • You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
  • We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters

Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:

  • Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
  • JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
  • JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
  • JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
  • JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
  • JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
  • JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
  • JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero

Hot Regions for JDM Cars

  • Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
  • Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
  • Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
  • Africa: South Africa
  • Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
  • Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.

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The Introduction Thread Welcome I've used EvoScan and the cable, did you buy it from them and what sort ....
GC8 front & rear axle question Non ra. Frm 93 wrx....
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General Toyota Aristo Celsior/Similar Common Frontend Problems I just thought I'd share some quick observations about Toyota's and save some grief and hassle for t....
2000-2005 UCF30/31 Celsior LS430 Lower Control Arm Bushings Info/Part# For another post my mechanic also found the rear cradle suspension bushings seem bad and are making ....
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Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums

Latest Posts

General Toyota Aristo Celsior/Similar Common Frontend Problems - Toyota -> Toyota General

I just thought I'd share some quick observations about Toyota's and save some grief and hassle for things that almost guaranteed to be an issue. From my 93 JZS147 to 97 JZS161 and 2000 UCF31 they've all had fairly similar issues. Even if you don't have this issue yet I assure you if you have an older car and drive it for a bit you will start having it fairly quickly unless your roads have no potholes and manhole covers:).

I now try to plan maintenance around these issues, for example by replacing tierods as a set (inner and outer) and balljoints at the same time. While doing that I usually do new rotors and pads.

If you suspect that your main issue such as on the Celsior are cracked/bad bushings replace those first. One thing that is annoying is finding this out after you've replaced a bunch of parts and having to do bushings and then a second alignment.

The pattern for me is that the steering racks kind of suck (they tend to leak-sometimes auction house inspector will note this as engine leak when it is actually the rack). Things like balljoints and tierods are sure to be bad or not far from it when you get them.

93 JZS147
[*Was very jerky when changing direction on the highway and wheel shake (bad tierods and balljoints-tierods showed obvious play). Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.[/LIST
97 JZS161
[*Shaking steering wheel even after out tierods (suspect balljoints due to sounds and possibly inner tierods-tierods showed obvious play).
[*Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.Leaking steering rack known to be bad in this series especially[/LIST
2000 UCF31
[*front-end shaking and wheel shimmy (bad balljoints and tierods showing no sign of play)
[*Bad control arm bushings (front lower)
[*Leaking Steering Rack
[*Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.
[*Steering rack from new known to be a little rough.
[*Steering would pull/jerk really hard in the area between almost full lock and full lock (this is fixed after replacing balljoints and tierods).
[*Air Suspension failed (common for any air suspension and applies to new and old Toyotas too).[/LIST

Interestingly enough I'd say if you look at older vs newer models, the older has less issues for me. In all fairness Celsior is a heavier car too, my car was lowered and now has very stiff RSR coilovers on it but you can see standard cars having the same issue.

2000-2005 UCF30/31 Celsior LS430 Lower Control Arm Bushings Info/Part# - Toyota -> Celsior

Reading the forums shows that the lower control arm bushings are a common issue on our cars. I've replaced balljoins and inner and outter rods and still have steering/front end shake and I am fairly sure it is the bushings after you see the pics:D. The bushings seem to cause the car to be difficult to drive straight as if it is being blown around and now I think it even causes issues when braking (SPUd had an even worse case than mine).

If your bushings do not look good and new I would say they are a must replace but really when searching most bushings look cracked and dead like mine.:D

Bad LCA bushing symptoms
[*I believe they are causing a clunk and "squeaky" sound.
[*Car will not track straight even with alignment (because it cannot hold an alignment)
[*Car will veer off to the side when hitting bumps/uneven objects or pavement.
[*Car shakes on highway even with good balance and new balljoints and tierods.[/LIST
How to fix the LCA bushings?
This is notobvious because a lot of shops and dealers say the arm must be replaced even though it is just a matter of unbolting the bushing bracket and pressing out and the new one in.



I found these 2 posts very helpful from the Lexus forums


For another post my mechanic also found the rear cradle suspension bushings seem bad and are making noise (not sure of the proper name).

GC8 front & rear axle question - Subaru -> Impreza

I have a 93 jdm gc8 wrx and im trying to replace my front and rear axles for they're starting to click when i turn. Just wondering if anybody has replaced them because im curious which axles are compatible with our jdm counterpart.
Do you have an RA or non-RA? It comes down to the final drive ratio of your diff and transmission (generally if another year is a match the axle should also be compatible).

Give this thread a read: https://jdmvip.com/forum/GC8_WRXSTi_transmission_compatibility_thread_Subaru_Impreza-873-t
Non ra. Frm 93 wrx

4th Gen PreludeJDM Headlight Schematic - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I have a 1992 Honda prelude and I just bought one piece headlights to install. My issue is that I need a schematic showing me what wires and relays go where. One light bulb has to be hooked up to a toggle switch. Any help is greatly appreciated.

GDB vs GDA Suspension Shock Compatibility - Subaru -> Impreza

anyone know if jdm 2000 sti bug eye GDB SEDAN Shocks and Struts are the same as 2002 2003 2004 GBA SEDAN WRX STI
Welcome to the forums when you say 2002-2004 WRX STi do you mean GDA WRX or GDBII STi?

Do you have a part number of the one from your bugeye? If so it can be cross-checked but in general the suspension setups between models would be compatible as a set even if they are not the same identical parts.
They should bolt right up but what is wrong with yours? If they are starting to clunk I have a cheap and easy fix for you. It is a very common issue with the JDM GDB STI's for the grease to dry up in the struts.

BG5 caliper replacement how-to (With Pictures!) - Subaru -> Legacy

Alright, some of you have seen that I recently used an Infrared Camera to identify which brake caliper was sticking. I thought that in the spirit of giving back to you guys (because I've learned a lot of useful stuff here) I'd do a quick write-up of how to replace a front caliper.

You'll need a caliper from a 2002 Forester to start, and the pads are the same as well. New caliper should look like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2928Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/New caliper.jpg-430858e3ee118dc34.jpg

Once you've got the wheel off you'll be looking at something like this.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2927Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Old caliper on car.jpg-430858e3ed794ad02.jpg

Now you'll need to remove the old caliper. Double wrench if required (I did!)

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2929Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Double wrench as required.jpg-430858e3eeb83dbd0.jpg
Here's the upper caliper bolt removed...

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2930Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Upper caliper bolt removed.jpg-430858e3eed43373a.jpg
And the lower being removed a-la doubling the wrenches...

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2931Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Lower caliper bolt.jpg-430858e3ef027a31d.jpg

Here's a side-by-side of the two parts, note they're not exactly the same. We're about to address that soon.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2932Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Calipers side-by-side.jpg-430858e3ef5d3f8c3.jpg

Next, we partially disassemble both to make one that fits. Remove the two bolts on each that hold the hydraulic assembly to the sliders...

On the old...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2933Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Disassembly of old caliper.jpg-430858e3f0018784d.jpg
And the new.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2934Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Disassembly of new caliper.jpg-430858e3f018d0cb3.jpg

Here are some measurements for reference. The new bracket looks to be about 65mm on center for the mounting hols, and the original is 74mm or so. We're going to re-use the original mount.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2935Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/New bracket dimension.jpg-430858e3f0c6ba804.jpg
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2936Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Original bracket dimension.jpg-430858e3f0df70f8b.jpg

By now, you should have something that looks like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2937Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Brackets side-by-side.jpg-430858e3f1d311c20.jpg

Next, remove the slider pins from the two brackets, and clean the holes in the original one thoroughly. In the picture below, I was almost done, sorry, didn't get one when it was good enough, just almost. I can't emphasize enough, that you should be cleaning all of the old parts as you go.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2938Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Slider hole nearly clean.jpg-430858e3f25ae3303.jpg

Once you've got everything all cleaned up properly, swap the new hardware to the original bracket and it should start to look like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2939Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Hardware swapped.jpg-430858e3f305b6d69.jpg

Then finish by putting the new hydraulic assembly on the original bracket, using the new hardware. Install your new pads and it should look similar to this.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2940Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Caliper loaded - ready for installation.jpg-430858e3f373c557a.jpg

Finally, install the re-assembled Franken-Caliper on your car, bleed the lines and put your wheel back on. If you have anti-seize for the lug-nuts I recommend it. Makes removing the wheel after a year much easier.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2941Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Installed.jpg-430858e3f41884f59.jpghttp://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2942Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Anti-Seize lugnuts.jpg-430858e3f42222dd6.jpg

Finally, remember to put the old hydraulic assembly back on the new bracket and take that thing back to the parts store to get your core-charge back. There isn't anything on there anymore that you can use in the future, and it's worth about $50, so that's like beer money. When your wife asks you how you paid for the beer in the garage, you can honestly say that you were being a responsible adult and took in some "recycling".
Fantastic writeup with details pics! You are such an asset to the community and glad you've found it helpful!

PS I have never seen such a corroded and generally rotten JDM caliper of any sort before:eek:

I'll be putting on the factory spoiler in a couple weeks. I'll try to remember to do a similar write up for that too.
good write up, and definitely post the spoiler DIY!

I am gonna do the calipers on my bg5 soon as ive got a sticky one too, i sourced out a 2002 outback for parts and i think the calipers should work.. anyone know something i dont?
the rebuild kit listed in the other brakes thread will work for either the forester or the O/B so that makes me think the caliper would be the same
I've found a good reference is rockauto.com

Start with subaru.epc-data.com and enter your chassis number etc. Find your Subaru factory part numbers and plug them into the rockauto.com search.

Usually you can come up with something. If not, then it's back to forum searches etc. In this case, you can cross the caliper from a 2002 Forester and find that it crosses to 98-02 Forester, 98-01 Impreza, and 97-01 Legacy.

This is usually how I find my parts anyways, but mileage may vary.

As for the spoiler, look for the write up coming early next week. All of the factory fasteners just arrived from Subaru yesterday and I've got four more nights until days off.
I've found a good reference is rockauto.com

Start with subaru.epc-data.com and enter your chassis number etc. Find your Subaru factory part numbers and plug them into the rockauto.com search.

Usually you can come up with something. If not, then it's back to forum searches etc. In this case, you can cross the caliper from a 2002 Forester and find that it crosses to 98-02 Forester, 98-01 Impreza, and 97-01 Legacy.

This is usually how I find my parts anyways, but mileage may vary.

As for the spoiler, look for the write up coming early next week. All of the factory fasteners just arrived from Subaru yesterday and I've got four more nights until days off.

Double-duty for a dash cam in a RHD car - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

It turns out this has been discussed previously "https://jdmvip.com/forum/InCar_Video_camera_and_display_Import_Discussion_Canada_Importing_JDM_Cars_From_Japan-1165-t"Here and "https://jdmvip.com/forum/Car_Camera_Import_Discussion_General_Discussion-2350-t"Here... but that was years ago. I'm going to splurge and start a new thread on this topic. ;)

I'm close to insuring and driving a RHD JDM Impreza I bought a few months ago. I'm not the least bit leery of shifting with my left hand, or worried about drive-thrus etc... but I admit to being a little concerned with making left turns in busy intersections when someone across from me is doing the same thing driving in the opposite direction. Their car is in my way of seeing who's coming, even to some degree when I'm driving a regular LHD vehicle. With a RHD vehicle, the situation is much much worse. 95% of my driving is within the city of Vancouver. I find myself very often sitting in an intersection, waiting for traffic to clear so I can turn left. I don't want to be in a position where I'm continually playing Russian Roulette.

So, I'm considering getting a dash cam... [Iand[/I an additional monitor. The dash cam would be performing double duty. One, it would be doing what a dash cam normally does... recording everything going on in front of the car. Secondly, in it's mounted position [Ion the far left side[/I of the windshield, it would be supplying a live video feed through it's A/V out to a small 4.3" TFT monitor positioned somewhere in front of me on the right hand side of the car. The small monitor is not to view Canuck hockey games (especially [Ithis[/I season!)... no, it's to better see who's coming towards me while turning left if/when my view of oncoming traffic is being compromised.

Prices have greatly dropped on this technology. I've checked into it and I figure the whole shebang could be bought from China/Hong Kong (through eBay) for about $50(US). Yes, seriously... and that's for a dash cam with 1080P resolution!

Has anyone else done this, and if so... how well has it worked out?
There has been lots of talk about this but I haven't heard or seen any live examples. Be our tester please :). Honestly it sounds like a potentially helpful idea as long as you are aware of blind spots which is my only worry about using one.

...it sounds like a potentially helpful idea as long as you are aware of blind spots which is my only worry about using one.

Believe me, I won't be relying on [Ijust[/I the camera and monitor when I'm driving. ;)

Even today while I was driving my trusty Fiero, I noticed how many times I was turning left in busy intersections... and realized how difficult it would be to see who was coming if I was sitting a few feet over to the right hand side.

I've basically decided on the dash cam I wish to use. It's just a matter now of finding the best priced version of it on eBay that's not a low grade fake with inferior components. I haven't quite decided on the size of a monitor yet. I don't know if a 4.3" one is sufficient, or if I actually need up to a 7" one to see oncoming cars clearly enough. It might be a somewhat of challenge to fit a larger monitor in a location where it's easily seen by me, but doesn't seem obtrusive.

I'll keep you apprised of my progress. :)
It's a good idea, I had started to look into something similar when I was looking into RHD @10yrs ago, I wanted to find a slim camera I could attach to mirror, then screen inside, I never did find what I was looking for back then, and when I finally got into RHD, I've primarily had SUV's, so sit higher and could see across, but I did have a lowered Aristo, that was hard to see, but I knew if I was going, I had the power to move me instantly :P, if I thought it would be dicey, I waited, sure people behind me would get pissed sometimes, but, I go when I know I could go

As for the screen to view, a 4.3 should be enough, as it is the quality of the video feed thats more important, bad cam= doesnt matter if its a 4" screen or 80".. it will show crappy

It's a good idea, I had started to look into something similar when I was looking into RHD @10yrs ago, I wanted to find a slim camera I could attach to mirror, then screen inside, I never did find what I was looking for back then...

It a good news/good news situation... as over the last decade, the technology has advanced, and the prices have plummeted!


As for the screen to view, a 4.3 should be enough, as it is the quality of the video feed thats more important, bad cam= doesnt matter if its a 4" screen or 80".. it will show crappy.

Well... yes and no. :) With inexpensive dash cams now being capable of 1080P, the image quality is superb. (I'll probably get a "https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/complete-review-of-g1w-c-capacitor-based-dash-camera-nt96650-ar0330-1080p-30fps.3543/"G1W-C.) The problem, as I see it, is that the lenses are so wide-angled (in order to take in a wide perspective). The unfortunate result is that everything in the distance shows up as being rather small. I suspect that a 4.3" screen just won't be large enough to quickly see what [Ineeds[/I to be seen. It's [Inot[/I that much more expensive to get a 7" screen (800x480), and objects/oncoming cars will basically be displayed twice as large, so that's the route I'll go.

I believe I've found a decent location to mount the monitor as well. With the lid removed here... a lowered flat surface presents itself. This should be a good spot for the monitor base to hunker down in and be anchored.


I'll probably get a "https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/complete-review-of-g1w-c-capacitor-based-dash-camera-nt96650-ar0330-1080p-30fps.3543/"G1W-C.
I pulled the pin and ordered one of these dash cams today. The price was [Iso[/I low, that I suspect it's a fake. I included the following message to the vendor with my PayPal payment...

"Important: If this item is not a genuine G1W-C dash cam with a NT96650 processor and Aptina AR0330 image sensor as stated in your listing, I will contact eBay and instruct PayPal to refund my purchase."

If it's a fake model with inferior components, I'll first put in a request to PayPal for a refund. If for some reason [Ithat[/I doesn't work, I'll then ask my credit card company to do a chargeback. But hey, I'm hoping this G1W-C is the real thing!

Another review of this dash cam is "http://www.bestdashboardcameras.com/g1w-g1wh-g1wc-gs108-dash-cam-review/"Here.


Infrared Images of Brake Failure - Subaru -> Legacy

Hey Everyone, it's been a while since I posted but I thought I'd share some findings.

Recently, through the winter I had noticed what seemed like a minor dragging somewhere in the driveline, but couldn't quite pin anything down. I checked tire pressures, and discovered they were low, so naturally filled to required pressure. This seemed to improve things, but I still noticed that the car felt like something was sticking, especially when I came to a stop, and let the car coast the last little bit.

Today, I decided that when I got home from work this morning that I'd take some IR pictures (I've been trained in this at work for electrical troubleshooting) to see if there was something that could be noticed and this is what I found...

Front Left
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2919Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Front Left.jpg-430858d15c4dbbe7a.jpg

Front Right
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2920Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Front Right.jpg-430858d15c5bcfedb.jpg

Rear Left
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2921Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Rear Left.jpg-430858d15c696a675.jpg

Rear Right
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2922Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/jdmcarpics/Rear Right.jpg-430858d15c71f4104.jpg

Pretty sure I've got to replace another front caliper as I think the Front Right isn't retracting properly when I release the brake. If anyone is interested, the part is equivalent to a 2002 Forrester, but only the piston end, the bracket has to be salvaged from the original.

Any other thoughts?
Nice work how much does this IR camera cost? I had the same issue with my front right on Impreza.
You can get a nice IR camera for less than $1000 these days. Much less if you look around. I don't know what the Canadian Tire version is like. But I think you can get it for less than $500.

I use a Fluke VT02 for most of my IR stuff. Pretty sure it set me back about $1000 when I bought it, but that was a few years ago now.

But at work we use mostly FLIR and Micron. Those can get very expensive.

Now, if only I could figure out what the misfire is when the motor is cold...

You can get a nice IR camera for less than $1000 these days.

Those are great images, and quite helpful... but for now I'll continue to use the back of my knuckle. :)
Do you guys think those Digital Temperature gauges would work as well? This reminds me of the less scientific version but when I had a rear right wheel bearing go on Impreza I could physically feel it was WAY hotter than all the other corners. I wonder if pointing one of those digital temp gauges at the caliper or bearing would give accurate results too? I think this is an underlooked or rated way of troubleshooting and diagnosing a lot of issues and a money saver.

Do you guys think those Digital Temperature gauges would work as well? I think this is an underlooked or rated way of troubleshooting and diagnosing a lot of issues and a money saver.

I think a INFRARED LASER THERMOMETER would work just fine for this purpose. I've seen them for as little as 20 bucks.

And maybe I should re-emphasize that I [Iwasn't[/I kidding about using the back of my knuckle. :o
IR cameras are super helpful. The trick is to understand the way the technology works and apply it in a meaningful way. IR temp guns are good, but they are usually set at the factory to work at an emissivity level of 0.95. This works great on something like electrical wiring and objects of similar composition. To jdmvip, a temp gun would work fine, as long as you were pointing it at the painted or rusty surface, your results would be reasonably accurate.

For something like a shiny brake rotor, you need to make sure that you set the emissivity on your device to something like 0.6. This is because the temperature recorded is always some combination of the actual emitted IR energy and the reflected IR. For example, if you were to stand in front of a large stainless steel panel or other shiny metal object and look at it with a suitable IR camera, you would actually see your IR reflection. That's how good the tech is these days! This is also why when using these things you need to take your images at an angle, so you don't inadvertently muddy the results with heat from yourself.

Generally, if you want accurate temperatures with a simple $20 IR gun, you should place some vinyl electrical tape where you want to measure. This will give you accurate results.

An example of something that IR can do if utilized properly is locate body filler in what appears to be a pristine car. The premise is simple enough, place the car to be examined in a garage, away from direct sources of heat. This lets the body of the car normalize to ambient. Then take the car out into the sunlight and film the car with an IR camera. As the sunlight heats the bodywork, places where it is thicker (body filler) will warm up at a different rate than the rest of the car, and will show up easily as a different temperature while the bodywork warms. It also works in reverse as the thinner steel sections will cool faster when placed back in the garage than the places with body filler.

If you guys have any other questions about how this tech can be applied let me know. I generally just use it for finding loose wiring in electrical panels, but I have been trained in it's application and use for everything else too.

One last thing, Vancouver98STi, that is super dangerous. Shiny things won't emit too much IR but can be ridiculously hot depending on the surface condition. I've seen stainless steel steam piping show on IR cameras at about 40C, but were actually at about 180C. Remember, the temperature you measure (and can feel at a distance) is a combination of Emitted and Reflected IR.

One last thing, Vancouver98STi, that is super dangerous.

Oh come on... quickly rapping the back of my knuckle onto a brake rotor is "super dangerous"? :cool: No way. I haven't had my ugly calloused knuckle ([Iany[/I of them) stick to a hot chunk of metal yet. ;)

Your knowledge of IR cameras is impressive (and thanks for sharing!)... but I know my knuckles. :p
A quick rap with the knuckles may not be too bad, but I've got nice scars from accidentally brushing against generator exhaust systems at work. I didn't think too much of it when I was an apprentice in my twenties, but you'd be hard pressed to see me working without long sleeves these days.

...I've got nice scars from accidentally brushing against generator exhaust systems at work.
Oh man, your comment took me back in time to '73... my first job out of high school. I worked for four years in a shop fixing air-cooled engines. Everything from one lung Briggs & Stratton putt-putts to V4 Wisconsin engines. They powered generators or pumps or whatever you can imagine. Because of the layout of these flat-head engines, the carburetors were always located right next to [COLOR="Red"HOT cast iron exhaust manifols. I used to burn my fingers/hands all the time while adjusting the carbs on these engines!

Here's a video I found online of an old Wisconsin V4 engine. Brings back memories (some of them painful!) from 40 years ago. :)


anyone familiar with the laws for importing a 49cc scooter? - Import Discussion -> United States USA - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I've been wantitng to get a motocompo for awhile now, but I havent found much good information on scooters. I swear 49cc and under use to be exempt, but the new nhsta document I was a bit confusing.

JDMVIP Club Display In The 43rd Annual Radical Speed Sport 2017 - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

JDMVIP will be participation in the 43rd Annual Radical Speed Sport Car Show
This year it will be held between April 21st-23rd 2017 at the Moncton coliseum.

2017 Show Features

Tom Smith from MISFIT GARAGE

Catherine Bach "Daisy Duke"

Twiggy from Vegas Rat Rods

and more!


This will be our 3rd annual club display, and we would like it to be even better then before.

I am hoping to have between 5-8 cars in the display.

If you are interested in entering your car please contact me directly.

Previous display from 2015

If you have anymore question feel free to PM me
+1 thanks for repping jdmvip at Radical Speed Sport 2017 ! I heard from rhdgc8 that we didn't have enough space for all the cars. Maybe next time we can get a bigger spot.

Looking forward to pics and video to upload to our Youtube channel.:D
We all had a great weekend! Representing JDMVIP at the local car show is always fun. Here are a few pictures.

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I will upload some more later on today. I will have to ask if anybody got video because I did not :(
Nice pics I think this is the best display yet, slick and clever work with the placement of the banners and cards! Thanks to everyone for taking the time to send their rides out. Next time I'll send a huge self-standing banner.
Thanks !! Ya we defiantly had a nice spot this year. Self standing banner would be great.

There is another large car show coming up in July. If everyone is up for it we may participate. It is a outdoor event for 3 days
More pictures from the show!!!

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This is a 1 0f 1

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couple more

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Wow nice selection I like the NSX, R32 GTR and R35 GTR!
Defiantly a great selection this year!

Ireland: A few pictures of my cars - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

How's it going folks been a member for a while but only got my acc authorised last week due to an error

Cars in ownership at the minute
93 Toyota starlet gt ep82 (Project)
99 Toyota Trueno ae111 my own car
00 Subaru legacy be5 b4 (engine blown)
01 Subaru legacy be5 b4 (donar car)
00 Toyota celica sports m zzt231
08 Honda fit ge6

Have owned a few jdm cars
ep82 starlet gt x3
ep91 glanza s x1
ep91 glanza v x3
S14 Nissan sr20det
Honda civic ferio ek4 saloon
Honda civic eg4
Honda civic eg8
Honda civic ek4 vti UK SPEC b16a2
Honda civic ek4 jdm spec b16a
Honda civic ek3 uk spec
00 Blue toyota celica sports m
a range of zzt231 gen7 celicas mostly 2zz powered and one 1zz
a range of gen6 celicas st202 models x1 red top beams x3 3sge and x1 3sfe
x2 ae101 fx-gt 20v one full car and one rolling shell which sold in the last few weeks
Have a facebook page that hosts cars going to auction in Japan in near future would like to use that page as an opportunity for importing cars into Ireland

Imported a 2008 Honda Fit back in May of last year I was in Japan Jan 2016 for two weeks and sussed out about importing so this is my daily driving 84km per day to work its a 1.3 auto 100bhp was a grade 4 import and have to say its immaculate
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Wow Joe glad you were able to get on here and thanks for sharing your amazing set of JDMs!
Wow, very nice crop there!
jdmvip;94109Wow Joe glad you were able to get on here and thanks for sharing your amazing set of JDMs!

Slowboi;94111Wow, very nice crop there!

Thanks lad, we don't have restrictions on imports in Ireland so they have been around a while, back in the day we had they best of jdm imports, ae86,r32,r33,rs200,ek9,zzt231,ek4,eg6,dc2 and dc5s unfortunately since the recession hit Ireland the importing started to slow down in mid 2006/2007 although it is starting to pick up again its mostly rear wheel drives like jzx100 ae86 and rs200 altezzas
Very interesting Joe I recall watching some cool GC8 Impreza videos from Ireland and there a are a lot of members from Ireland on my friend Dean's Type-RA forum.

FS: 2001 Subaru STI Version 7 GDB - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

As some of you already know I have decided to part ways with my STI.

If you want more information you can check out my build thread or PM me directly. I try to check the forum every few days.

I also want to be clear that this car is not stock, it has a built engine from Lachute Performance in Quebec. Please do your research on the cost of these motors before you go and criticize the price of my car. My asking price reflects what is done to this car and I consider it fair. I have more into this car then what I am asking, so this is my loss and your gain. Price is also negotiable, I will entertain reasonable offers. Please no trades

The car is currently stored until I find a buyer. It is located in Moncton New Brunswick. I am willing to ship, but the buyer is responsible for arrangements.

The car is licensed and inspected in NB until May 2017. Everything is in good running order, I can provide more pictures or detailed videos to potential buyer if they cannot come see the car in person

Anyways here is a quick rundown on my car

2001 Subaru Impreza STI Version 7
6 speed manual

Lachute Performance AK Series EJ207 #0189 (10,000kms) 119k on the body.
-Version 11 STI 75mm crankshaft
-Version 11 STI rods
-Omega Racing Pistons 92.50mm
-Version 9 STI Heads/Camshafts
-ACL Rod Bearings
-ACL Crank Bearings
-OEM gaskets
Zero sports catted downpipe
Zero sports stainless exhaust
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Genome STI gauges with controller/pod (factory option)
Innovate wideband
Prodrive cluster 260km/h (factory option)
Version 8 blue carpet
HKS Turbo timer

Version 8 rear wing
Perrin stiffies
Zero sports grill
OEM rear spats
OEM rear diffuser
Rally Armor mud flaps
OEM rain visors
OEM fog lights
Aftermarket large scoop
Window tint


Factory mini disc and Alpine deck
Kenwood speakers

Car is factory equipped with the following

- Power windows
- Keyless entry
- Power steering
- Power folding mirriors
- Power adjust headlights/hid
- Intercooler spray (auto)
- Auto climate control
- Brembo brakes
- A/C


Factory 17" version 7 wheels with 225/45/17 Goodyear

Asking $19,500obo
No Trades
Sold as is where is



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How You Know That Your Air Suspension Is Knackered - Toyota -> Celsior

No I wasn't planning for a cambered look!:eek:
But seriously thinking back to the weeks and months before here's what I remember. The front started to feel a bit more stiff (I liked it) and the rear will start bouncing hard as in you are getting thrown out of your seat (this means your rears have sunk and are hitting the rubber stops on the mounting area). It may happen a few times and get better if you adjust your height but be warned it is like playing with fire when all of them may go at the same time (also note when you pull over the car may have already levelled itself out so just because you don't see the rear has sunken doesn't mean it's not a symptom). Another thing when I think back to it is that the car gradually over days and weeks appeared to get a bit lower on its own. The thing is that none of this stuff is very obvious until after the fact and hindsight so this is why I'm stating what sounds obvious :).

Just some background info I read for years that air is not reliable and this is true of even in the newer UCF31 series of Celsior and probably air in general for other vehicles.

In the Celsior I read consistently that "the rears go first" and you can really see they are lower. If your rears are lower then it is a sign that your air suspension has probably begun its inevitable demise. The thing is according to various Lexus forums is that you better replace everything at once regardless of if it's just a sensor or a single strut because "the others won't be far behind". My mechanic also confirmed there was oil leaking from all of them so they virtually all failed at almost the same time.

One more note is that I had a suspension controller from Japan and the car came fairly slammed. I read that using "sport mode" and lowering these cars significantly reduces the life of the air suspension.

Hope the above is useful. Personally I am glad I ordered the RSR coilovers with the car I think everyone should have a pair of springs or coils handy if you have air in case a day like below suddenly happens.:D


Fukushima Auction House Radiation - Import Discussion -> Japan Car Export/Auction Discussion

For those who know the situation there has been a lot of debate over it, some people at first thought the issue was minor but even to this day I can tell which cars are from Fukushima auction because they have the "red/white" radiation shield right in the photo bay. Does anyone know how far the auction house is from the Fukushima reactors?

Would you guys stay away from cars that went through Fukushima?

Before people get too scared I believe cars being exported are tested for radiation and get a so-called "ANCC" sticker. Some countries still may screen for radiation.

Recurrent message displayed by Mitsubishi Outlander 2005 - Mitsubishi -> Mitsubishi General

Hi there!

I need some help. I have a Mitsubishi Outlander 2005. And it is repeatedly diplaying a message consisting of a wrench and a text in japanese. Thought it needed servicing, did it! But it keeps dispaying the message, first when you open doors and also when your start the engin (as per pics here attached). I need to know the meaning of this recurrent message. Can someone help?
First photo says many months until next service is due.

Second photo says Period Check which mains vehicle needs service.



Looking for help with a vehicle in Japan (Exporter Related) - Import Discussion -> Vendor & Exporter Feedback

I really need some help right now. I have been waiting on two vehicles from Sastrad KK for over a year now. (I already posted the whole story in another post, this is a separate issue)

I was working with a Japanese friend who is also an exporter. We have discovered that, one of the vehicles is still in Sastrad KKs ownership.

However, the other appears to be sold off to an auction company. We searched through the registration office and found this.

I jumped on the auction sites and by chance, and there it was. The one car that was sold off to an auction company.

Sastrad kk sold it off and I now have proof that this is now fraud. I have no car and no refund.

Does anyone know of anyway at all that I can go after this car? I have proof that I sent him the money for the vehicle. Including invoice made up for the car from Sastrad KK and wire transfers, along with emails of him confirming payment.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, I am just at a lost right now.

Please, if anyone has any ideas at all, please let me know. I feel like the second car is next on the for sale list if it is not already sold, but not registered.
Definitely a lawyer in Japan may be able to help you. The question would be assuming they can help you and they can secure the vehicle, will the legal fees outweigh or equal the potential loss?
Also assuming you have verified the chassis# matches at auction?
jdmvip;94076Also assuming you have verified the chassis# matches at auction?


Yeah the VIN is how I discovered it listed in auction. It is also on tradecarview for sale. I have emailed the seller casually to find out some info, but no response yet. I have been trying to reach different lawyers in Japan, but none have even replied. It has tried to sell through auction a few times, but did not sell. I am trying to get this resolved before this week is up, as I think it will be sold, and gone forever.
jdmvip;94075Definitely a lawyer in Japan may be able to help you. The question would be assuming they can help you and they can secure the vehicle, will the legal fees outweigh or equal the potential loss?

I also have a japanese friend helping out there. he ran the registration on both vehicles, and the one came up as a different owner, which is what started the search. getting the other vehicle here might be easier as long as its in his name. I just need to find someone on the ground who knows what to do. This cant be the first time this has happened so there has to be someone!
I am sure there must be a way and really hope it works out for you. We really need a "JDM Car Legal Advice" thread for fraud, misrepresentation etc.. and a "JDMVip friendly lawfirm".

One oily spark plug - Subaru -> Impreza

I pulled the spark plugs today... first time I've ever done this on a Subaru engine. Wasn't too bad with the battery and air filter box removed.

I suspect these NGK spark plugs (BKR6EIX-P) have been in this engine for a [Ilong[/I time. Car has 140,000 km on it. I was a little disappointed to discover that the spark plug from cylinder #4 was rather oily. The sheen is noticeable on the ground electrode and on the nose of its ceramic insulator in the image below. I'm hoping this isn't an indication that major engine issues are imminent (or have [Ialready[/I occurred). :(


I want to replace these with regular BKR6E spark plugs. I see that NGK has a slightly different version of this plug, BKR6EYA which is supposed to be "fouling resistant". I thought maybe this might be worthwhile to try keeping in mind that one cylinder seems to have an oil problem. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Any reason why using a "YA" plug (fouling resistant) would be a [Ibad[/I idea?

Tradecarreview - Import Discussion -> Vendor & Exporter Feedback

Anyone have good or bad reviews on this service.

Mark is on holiday I would normally go through him!
It's not really a service but more like a market place with many Exporters. We have a few threads on here that talk more about it but generally there are good and bad experiences to be had, it depends on the Exporter in the end.
I probably should broaden my question.

Tradecarreview hold your funds until the car is shipped apparently. Wondering if process works. Tried search function but not many hits.

I was curious if anyone had experience with this.

Bought a lot of cars in Japan over past 6 years and had bought 10 cars through Sastrad by that point. Last 2 bad others were great. Still screwed me big time on last car .

Before him the old autosquare which were awesome!

Thanks for your reply!
I haven't heard feedback about that but if they do what they say I imagine the service works though TCV has had a bad rep from the start. From what I recall reading they basically say once there is proof of shipment they release the funds (and they admit whether or not the vehicle is good/bad misrepresented is not their issue or intention of the service). It is a good idea to do, but there are ways to scam the system if Tradecarview does not take steps to verify the BOL is real or for the car claimed (or in other words if a fraudulent/fake/forged BOL is used as proof which is also an issue I have seen in general even outside the Japan car world).

Autosquare had a good rep, they did come back but it is not clear how the service has changed or even if they are the same people/company based on some old threads here.

Sorry I know the above may not help a lot, but I think with recent events we're all a bit nervous. I have been let down by people who seemed great over the years and with good reviews (although sometimes if you PM people who review they tell you the real story but would always deny it in public).
Another thread I suppose but I've always asked our members to be honest on the forums with the reviews and report any problems (eg. I think we would have known Sastrad is going down awhile ago if people had posted sooner even for what they thought was minor).

18x10 +12 TRIAL Zelda Magnum by RAYS forged wheels - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hello All,

I have a very rare set of forged wheels TRIAL Zelda Magnum by RAYS 18x10 +12
Spec'd for R33 GTR but will fit many other brands. The clear on lip is peeling out so will need polishing.
$1500 obo

Just washed the GTR...new pictures

wow sick R33 congrats z32 and great see one of the old school original members !
Yeah old school but not very active. Where do you guys meet in summer?
Where are you now? I'm in Surrey we have meets in the Vancouver area sometimes but any members are welcome to post a meet thread for anywhere.

Toyota Mark 11 Blit Engine D4 overhaul - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hello guys I want to overhaul my D4 engine 139,000km I bought on line. I have been aware of the difficulties of the D4 so I plan to extend its life further. what should I replace on this engine?

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