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Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums

Latest Posts

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Need a referral for an Importer for New West - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I have an exporter lined up, as I prefer to bid and pay myself. I need someone to handle soil inspection, customs clearance, and transport for RO/RO to New Westminster. Who is recommended? Trustworthy and reasonably priced?

thanks,
Cameron
ps looking at Evo 6 and 7 in case you're wondering.

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ABC customs he can likely help you out. His name is Bob.

If you haven't already found a EVO to bid on, I know of one already in Canada for sale that is absolutely beautiful.

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2000 bh5 legacy front suspension - Subaru -> Legacy

Does anybody know the part numbers for front/rear struts? G.P. highways pounded the crap out of them over winter... i've searched for hrs on end and came up inconclusive..

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Toyota Estima Requires Keyfob Chip To Start? - Toyota -> Toyota General

I am getting this is the case from this story: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/family-loses-keys-abandon-car-1.4154919

In case it happens to our members I looked up some info which may solve this issue if it happens again (SMS'd to the phone number in the news article).

In the worst case you could get a new keyfob from eBay with the chip and then you should be able to use a Techstream cable to program it (there are also some instructions which claim you can use a combination of door locks/open door to possibly program without any ECU tools).

Does anyone have a list of which models require the keyfob/RFID to start?

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Shame on Toyota Canada, this looks like a young family who probably cannot afford financially or the stress when Toyota Canada know very well that they do not have to send the vehicle back to Japan and in fact Toyota Canada could obtain the new key and fob for them "if" they wanted to.

Long story short, even if the vehicle is on the moon a new key/fob can be obtained from Japan and it comes with simple instructions on how to program the immobiliser in the fob.

I have brought and sent a few over the years to customers around the world.

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GC8 v1 struts - Subaru -> Impreza

Hi all,
I have an old 1993 v1 GC8, it is a great car but the struts are starting to fail. They are leaking and creaking especially creaking in winter over speed bumps.

I don't know much about suspension, what should I be looking at to replace them? Are the stock replacement parts obtainable new? I don't really want to change the ride feel from stock WRX style. If antything the rear end could be lifted an inch or so. It looks like 2001 WRX struts are a direct swap fit, is that correct?

Thanks!

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I haven't looked up the parts but would imagine they would be very expensive new and that's IF they are available which I am honestly doubting.

My rears are totally gone you can push the car up and down from the back of the trunk!:eek:

So I'm in the same boat, I am fairly confident suspension from say a 98 Impreza RS would work although like you I wonder will it be as good and stiff?

The best way would be a set of aftermarket shocks and springs or even coilovers that will be my plan. I think some of our members have gone this route too but can't remember the details. With these cars aging I imagine we're not alone my friend.

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I've decided the following parts are fitment for Impreza 1993-2001 and will match the OEM:

rear left: KYB-334110
rear right: KYB-334109
front right: KYB-334111
front left: KYB-334112

They go for about $100ea, still searching for rubber bits too, top mounts, spring seats, etc. It's all coming together.

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strut mounts:
front: KYB SM5361
rear: KYB SM5243

rubber spring seat lower:
rear: KYB SM5575

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If you want the higher performance adjustable struts, the KYB AGX line part numbers are:
734006
734007
733010
733011

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Good info I found a similar thread on the Type RA forums with your part#'s: http://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/type-ra-v2-v-limited-which-struts-and-springs.26412/

Are you planning on getting new springs or reusing your stock ones?

Also I do believe GDA/GDB struts would work but I am not 100% certain.

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Thanks, the numbers I came up with are what's listed at RockAuto. The rear parts match, but the thread you linked to lists a different part for the fronts, KYB 334255 and 334256.

I was planning to reuse the springs, and replace as many rubber parts as I can find, so the mounts and spring seats, etc.

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On the plus side, the parts in your thread match the part numbers in this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T02OR6

The 334111/12 are listed as non-abs parts, so I think maybe the 334255/56 are the part with ABS brackets. I don't have ABS so I assume aither will be fine.

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DOT headlights for Nissan Rasheen - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

The excellent Brave Auto has secured me a Nissan Rasheen, and it's about to be loaded for shipping to Vancouver. I reside in BC, and I'm trying to figure out what I can do about the headlights to pass the OOP. Can anyone give me some advice on where I might find DOT headlights for this car? Do these headlights look familiar to anyone? Thanks in advance!

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3033Image:

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I just wanted to add that I've heard that to pass the OPP inspection, the headlight assemblies simply have to be firmly installed and stable, and it doesn't really matter if they're not an exact match for the installation holes. Can anyone confirm this?

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Congrats on the Rasheen I hope you'll make a new thread with more info and pics!

Yes it is true what you say, they must be DOT lights, secure and also have to be adjustable for aiming.

Sorry I cannot think of an obvious match but I am sure there must be something. I'm assuming you got Mark to check for E-Code as well? Some shops have to be told this, but non-DOT but E-Coded headlights are legal.

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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I asked him to check too late, as the car is already on a boat. Hopefully they're e-coded, and I'll just have to wait a few weeks to find out. I did find out that the tires have the load ratings on them, so that should mean I don't need DOT stamped ones, yes?

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Hi Rasheen, little off topic. What was your experience with Brave Auto like? Thanks...

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Sorry for the delay in responding! Good experience, I'm happy. I'm picking up the car next week, hopefully it all works out. Send me a pm if you have something specific you want to discuss.

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First Timer JDM - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

Hello community. Firstly, this is an amazing forum comprised of some very passionate people. I'm glad to be a part of this community.

I am a first timer JDM guy about to purchase a: 1998 GF8 Subaru WRX-STi Version 5 Wagon. It has 120,000 km. Auction grade 3.5 - it's pretty clean.

I was intending to find one myself and enlist the help of an importer to help broker the deal - turns out they had found what I was looking for.

My concerns are however:
1) The mileage: I was looking for somewhere in the vicinity of 80,000 km. Is my concern with mileage unfounded?

2) The complete cost is $9000 (CAD) - am I overpaying? I'm not looking for a deal - I just want to pay a fair price and as I am a noob, I'm not sure if this is. My expectation (based on some people I've talked to) was approximately $6-$7k; however, these friends do not know about the various versions of Subaru Imprezas.

I would really really appreciate some comment on this.

Thanks.

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Clarification: "complete cost" = customs cleared cost

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Welcome to the forums!
1.) Mileage is not a huge concern as long as you are confident in the running and engine condition.
2.) This is hard to say can you show us a break down?

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jdmvip;94544Welcome to the forums!
1.) Mileage is not a huge concern as long as you are confident in the running and engine condition.
2.) This is hard to say can you show us a break down?

Hey! Thanks for replying! I really appreciate it.

1) I'm not sure...yet. I will be before I commit.

2) The breakdown is actually what I'm trying to understand...hence this question.
I have determined most of the variables within that cost (e.g. cost of vehicle at auction, ballpark estimate of cost on Canada end, etc.) - however, I'm still unsure of the cost to export the vehicle - I understand shipping is approximately $1600 to Vancouver - but I wonder if there are any other costs on the Japan end I am unaware of.
I definitely don't want the importer to incur any costs out of their own pocket - and definitely WANT them to make money off me for their services; however, I suppose I'm a little gun-shy as this is my first time importing and, having worked in the car sales business, I know what is sometimes said to get a deal and don't want to get "schwacked". DISCLAIMER: Not all are bad - I do not paint everyone with a broad brush - but am skeptical without a pre-existing relationship.
The question I should ask then is: "what is the average cost or ballpark estimate of exporting a vehicle from Japan to Canada?"

Thanks in advance for your help and sharing your experience.

RHDJIB

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Welcome to the forums!
1.) Mileage is not a huge concern as long as you are confident in the running and engine condition.
2.) This is hard to say depending what is included (eg. inspection and on the road with taxes?) can you show us a break down?

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I think BCRob's recent experience will give you a good run down: https://jdmvip.com/forum/Cost_of_Importing_a_Car_from_Japan_to_BC_Import_Discussion_Canada_Importing_JDM_Cars_From_Japan-6283-t

In general if buying a car from auction I find you add a minimum of $3K CAD on top of the "car price" from auction and this assumes there are no issues with the car and other fees etc...

It all depends on how you are buying eg. are you buying a stock car or auction car? You shouldn't be shy to ask for a CIF Quote which will break down all of the costs aside from what you incur on this end (unless you're dealing with a local Importer here in Canada).

Feel free to ask any little question as someone here will know the answer for sure!

Cheers

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jdmvip: Thank you so much for your input. Thanks to yours and BCRob's info, I deemed it to be a fair deal and proceeded. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge/experience. I'm stoked for my new (to me) Impreza. Now to figure out what wheels to buy...

rhdjib

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BG5 GT-B RFRB Spoiler Installation Guide - With Pictures! - Subaru -> Legacy

Hello Everyone!

As promised, here is a write-up with pictures of the installation of a JDM RFRB (Run fast run beautiful) spoiler. Steps will be much the same for anyone with a BG5 Legacy.

First, buy your parts from your friendly neighbourhood Subaru Dealer. If you`re in Alberta, I would suggest talking to Janelle from Rally Subaru in Edmonton. She doesn't mind finding the more esoteric parts and is happy to help. You`ll need the parts listed on this invoice if you`re installing the standard roof spoiler.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3010Image:

You`ll need a cordless drill, a 1/8 drill bit, a stepper bit (trust me, makes round holes in sheet metal), some touch-up paint, your usual assortment of screwdrivers and other hand tools, a rat-tail file, and a Dremel tool (if your spoiler has an integrated 3rd brake light).

Note that if you have opted to buy the fancy-pants RFRB spoiler that the protectors (`Packing` on the invoice) are not correct and will not line up properly with the inside of the spoiler no matter how many different ways you try. Turns out I spent an extra 70 dollars or so that I didn`t have to. Heed my warning and go to a glass shop and ask for a roll of butyl tape. They`ll probably ask for about 10 dollars hand you something that looks like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3011Image:

Before you begin, you should inspect the threaded studs on the spoiler to make sure that they haven`t been cross-threaded. Just try to run a normal M6-1.0 nut down them and if they jam up chase the studs with a die to clean them up. My spoiler of choice was from Malaysia and clearly had damaged threads so this was important.

Here`s a before picture of the back end...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3015Image:

Now, let`s remove the interior of the trunk lid so we have this to look at...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3016Image:

Now before you begin hacking and slashing the rear of your car up lets place some painters tape over the areas affected...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3012Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3013Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3014Image:

Next, you`ll need to make your first two marks for where to drill the pilot holes. Make a mark 17mm from the leading edge of the trunk-lid, and 19mm from the inside lip.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3017Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3018Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3019Image:

Now, if you need a moment to yourself before you begin drilling holes into an otherwise perfect condition part of your car that`s normal. I had a quick beverage and then gathered up the testicular fortitude. Start with the 1/8 drill bit for the pilot holes and then move on to the stepper, being very careful not to damage the wiring harness that`s run through this area.

After the holes were drilled...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3020Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3021Image:

Now you have to hang the spoiler from the top two holes to mark the next three lower holes. There are some who say you can measure for these, but I think this method is a bit better. Make sure you make your next marks more or less directly below
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3022Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3023Image:

You can see the line where I marked the bottom edge of the lower hole here...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3024Image:

Now drill the three holes and cut out the wiring hole (if applicable)
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3025Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3026Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3027Image:

Using a Dremel with a small cut-off wheel carve out the wiring hole if you need to...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3028Image:

Now you can peel the tape off and test fitment...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3029Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3032Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3030Image:

Before final mounting, clean up the holes with a rat-tail file, and apply touch-up paint to the exposed metal.

Place a thin strip of the butyl sealant tape around the holes (or in the case of regular spoiler, use the protector pads) to prevent water ingress and place your spoiler on the car. Wedge some cardboard between the trunk-lid and body at the upper hole locations and open the trunk to compress the butyl enough to press the grommets onto the snap studs and then install and tighten the three nuts. If any of the butyl sealant oozes out of the gap you can cut it off with a sharp knife pressed gently into it.

Finally, connect the electrics if applicable, install the interior trim pieces.

Wipe the sweat off your brow, you just drilled holes in your car and lived!

Should look kinda like this when finished...

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3031Image:

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Nice work! Now I want a RFRB spoiler to go with my grille

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It does look pretty sweet. There's usually a couple available on eBay for not too much money. The tricky part it finding one that's the right color.

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North American Map Disk for Toyota - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hey guys, this is my first post so I do apologize if I come across as ignorant. I recently purchased a UZS171 Crown Majesta and I love it. I'm currently searching for a map disk for north america. Has anyone ever come across one of these or know where I could get one if they even exist? TIA! :D

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Welcome and congrats on the 171 can we get some pics somewhere?
I don't think there are any maps for outside Japan but I am not sure.

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Looking to import a Land Cruiser - any experience - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I am looking to import a Land Cruiser (Japan to BC). I will likely land on the 100 series v8 model of the 1999-2002 vintage. I am wondering if anyone here has imported such a vehicle to Canada and what your experience was with that particular vehicle. For example, what are the updates/changes that I will be looking at on such a vehicle to make it possible to properly register in BC. What about maintaining here in Canada - is it problematic at all getting parts? Are Land Cruiser parts from the USA suitable for this vehicle? Any other suggesetions/warnings at all about importing a Land Cruiser to BC? Thank you to anyone who has experience with this one who has any advice to offer.

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Need a favor from a few GTB BH5 E tune owners with automatic tranny. 98-02 year - Subaru -> Legacy

I'm trying to find out what a TCU( Tranny control unit) EXACTLY looks like on a 98-02 Subaru Legacy GTB BH5 E tune specific with Automatic trannys only !

Step1. Look under your steering wheel dash piece and please take a picture + post here.


Here is a pic of my TCUS

http://imgur.com/a/CNOig
http://imgur.com/a/4z4j8


The WF one is from a 2001 GTB Limited( NON VDC and NON E-Tune)
The RG is from a 1998 GTV VDC.

Thanks!!!

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Evo hits the track! Kapow! - Mitsubishi -> EVO

Well, the first time attack event of the season is over and the car did very well.
At the moment I am not looking to run an entire time attack series however the car is currently competitive in the Pinacle Time attack series.

I ran a 1:29 flat in poor weather, this is a transponder time on the full road course at castrol raceway. That allowed me to win my class and place third overall across all classes.

The car ran great and I had a chance to run on full slicks (Hoosier R7's)
I will be heading to Knox Mountain Hill climb in 2 weeks!

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3008Image:

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3009Image:

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Thanks to @photog_luke for all the fantastic pics!!

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Congrats sick pics Slowboi and glad to EVO back in business! How did you pull off the landing in the first pic is there any video?!

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jdmvip;94460Congrats sick pics Slowboi and glad to EVO back in business! How did you pull off the landing in the first pic is there any video?!

Yeah we are just putting together some in car video for that. I was tuning my suspension and set it a little too stiff then I caught my rear tire on a small curb at speed so it kicked the car up on 2 wheels for a bit. The pic looks more dramatic then it was actually, i had no issues holding it together in the turn and the car didn't even slam down.... got some height thought!

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General Toyota Aristo Celsior/Similar Common Frontend Problems - Toyota -> Toyota General

I just thought I'd share some quick observations about Toyota's and save some grief and hassle for things that almost guaranteed to be an issue. From my 93 JZS147 to 97 JZS161 and 2000 UCF31 they've all had fairly similar issues. Even if you don't have this issue yet I assure you if you have an older car and drive it for a bit you will start having it fairly quickly unless your roads have no potholes and manhole covers:).

I now try to plan maintenance around these issues, for example by replacing tierods as a set (inner and outer) and balljoints at the same time. While doing that I usually do new rotors and pads.

If you suspect that your main issue such as on the Celsior are cracked/bad bushings replace those first. One thing that is annoying is finding this out after you've replaced a bunch of parts and having to do bushings and then a second alignment.

The pattern for me is that the steering racks kind of suck (they tend to leak-sometimes auction house inspector will note this as engine leak when it is actually the rack). Things like balljoints and tierods are sure to be bad or not far from it when you get them.



93 JZS147
[LIST
[*Was very jerky when changing direction on the highway and wheel shake (bad tierods and balljoints-tierods showed obvious play). Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.[/LIST
97 JZS161
[LIST
[*Shaking steering wheel even after out tierods (suspect balljoints due to sounds and possibly inner tierods-tierods showed obvious play).
[*Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.Leaking steering rack known to be bad in this series especially[/LIST
2000 UCF31
[LIST
[*front-end shaking and wheel shimmy (bad balljoints and tierods showing no sign of play)
[*Bad control arm bushings (front lower)
[*Leaking Steering Rack
[*Balljoints creaked when stopped/on brakes and turning wheel.
[*Steering rack from new known to be a little rough.
[*Steering would pull/jerk really hard in the area between almost full lock and full lock (this is fixed after replacing balljoints and tierods).
[*Air Suspension failed (common for any air suspension and applies to new and old Toyotas too).[/LIST

Interestingly enough I'd say if you look at older vs newer models, the older has less issues for me. In all fairness Celsior is a heavier car too, my car was lowered and now has very stiff RSR coilovers on it but you can see standard cars having the same issue.

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2000-2005 UCF30/31 Celsior LS430 Lower Control Arm Bushings Info/Part# - Toyota -> Celsior

Reading the forums shows that the lower control arm bushings are a common issue on our cars. I've replaced balljoins and inner and outter rods and still have steering/front end shake and I am fairly sure it is the bushings after you see the pics:D. The bushings seem to cause the car to be difficult to drive straight as if it is being blown around and now I think it even causes issues when braking (SPUd had an even worse case than mine).

If your bushings do not look good and new I would say they are a must replace but really when searching most bushings look cracked and dead like mine.:D

Bad LCA bushing symptoms
[LIST
[*I believe they are causing a clunk and "squeaky" sound.
[*Car will not track straight even with alignment (because it cannot hold an alignment)
[*Car will veer off to the side when hitting bumps/uneven objects or pavement.
[*Car shakes on highway even with good balance and new balljoints and tierods.[/LIST
How to fix the LCA bushings?
This is notobvious because a lot of shops and dealers say the arm must be replaced even though it is just a matter of unbolting the bushing bracket and pressing out and the new one in.


"http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2944"Image:
"http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2943"Image:

DIY

I found these 2 posts very helpful from the Lexus forums

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/466159-lower-control-arm-bushing-repair-2.html#post8643093
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/466159-lower-control-arm-bushing-repair-3.html#post8864891

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For another post my mechanic also found the rear cradle suspension bushings seem bad and are making noise (not sure of the proper name).

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GC8 front & rear axle question - Subaru -> Impreza

I have a 93 jdm gc8 wrx and im trying to replace my front and rear axles for they're starting to click when i turn. Just wondering if anybody has replaced them because im curious which axles are compatible with our jdm counterpart.

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Do you have an RA or non-RA? It comes down to the final drive ratio of your diff and transmission (generally if another year is a match the axle should also be compatible).

Give this thread a read: https://jdmvip.com/forum/GC8_WRXSTi_transmission_compatibility_thread_Subaru_Impreza-873-t

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Non ra. Frm 93 wrx

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4th Gen PreludeJDM Headlight Schematic - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I have a 1992 Honda prelude and I just bought one piece headlights to install. My issue is that I need a schematic showing me what wires and relays go where. One light bulb has to be hooked up to a toggle switch. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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GDB vs GDA Suspension Shock Compatibility - Subaru -> Impreza

anyone know if jdm 2000 sti bug eye GDB SEDAN Shocks and Struts are the same as 2002 2003 2004 GBA SEDAN WRX STI

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Welcome to the forums when you say 2002-2004 WRX STi do you mean GDA WRX or GDBII STi?

Do you have a part number of the one from your bugeye? If so it can be cross-checked but in general the suspension setups between models would be compatible as a set even if they are not the same identical parts.

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They should bolt right up but what is wrong with yours? If they are starting to clunk I have a cheap and easy fix for you. It is a very common issue with the JDM GDB STI's for the grease to dry up in the struts.

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BG5 caliper replacement how-to (With Pictures!) - Subaru -> Legacy

Alright, some of you have seen that I recently used an Infrared Camera to identify which brake caliper was sticking. I thought that in the spirit of giving back to you guys (because I've learned a lot of useful stuff here) I'd do a quick write-up of how to replace a front caliper.

You'll need a caliper from a 2002 Forester to start, and the pads are the same as well. New caliper should look like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2928Image:

Once you've got the wheel off you'll be looking at something like this.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2927Image:

Now you'll need to remove the old caliper. Double wrench if required (I did!)

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2929Image:
Here's the upper caliper bolt removed...

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2930Image:
And the lower being removed a-la doubling the wrenches...

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2931Image:

Here's a side-by-side of the two parts, note they're not exactly the same. We're about to address that soon.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2932Image:

Next, we partially disassemble both to make one that fits. Remove the two bolts on each that hold the hydraulic assembly to the sliders...

On the old...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2933Image:
And the new.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2934Image:

Here are some measurements for reference. The new bracket looks to be about 65mm on center for the mounting hols, and the original is 74mm or so. We're going to re-use the original mount.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2935Image:
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2936Image:

By now, you should have something that looks like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2937Image:

Next, remove the slider pins from the two brackets, and clean the holes in the original one thoroughly. In the picture below, I was almost done, sorry, didn't get one when it was good enough, just almost. I can't emphasize enough, that you should be cleaning all of the old parts as you go.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2938Image:

Once you've got everything all cleaned up properly, swap the new hardware to the original bracket and it should start to look like this...
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2939Image:

Then finish by putting the new hydraulic assembly on the original bracket, using the new hardware. Install your new pads and it should look similar to this.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2940Image:

Finally, install the re-assembled Franken-Caliper on your car, bleed the lines and put your wheel back on. If you have anti-seize for the lug-nuts I recommend it. Makes removing the wheel after a year much easier.
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2941Image:http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2942Image:

Finally, remember to put the old hydraulic assembly back on the new bracket and take that thing back to the parts store to get your core-charge back. There isn't anything on there anymore that you can use in the future, and it's worth about $50, so that's like beer money. When your wife asks you how you paid for the beer in the garage, you can honestly say that you were being a responsible adult and took in some "recycling".

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Fantastic writeup with details pics! You are such an asset to the community and glad you've found it helpful!

PS I have never seen such a corroded and generally rotten JDM caliper of any sort before:eek:

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Thanks!

I'll be putting on the factory spoiler in a couple weeks. I'll try to remember to do a similar write up for that too.

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good write up, and definitely post the spoiler DIY!

I am gonna do the calipers on my bg5 soon as ive got a sticky one too, i sourced out a 2002 outback for parts and i think the calipers should work.. anyone know something i dont?
the rebuild kit listed in the other brakes thread will work for either the forester or the O/B so that makes me think the caliper would be the same

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I've found a good reference is rockauto.com

Start with subaru.epc-data.com and enter your chassis number etc. Find your Subaru factory part numbers and plug them into the rockauto.com search.

Usually you can come up with something. If not, then it's back to forum searches etc. In this case, you can cross the caliper from a 2002 Forester and find that it crosses to 98-02 Forester, 98-01 Impreza, and 97-01 Legacy.

This is usually how I find my parts anyways, but mileage may vary.

As for the spoiler, look for the write up coming early next week. All of the factory fasteners just arrived from Subaru yesterday and I've got four more nights until days off.

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I've found a good reference is rockauto.com

Start with subaru.epc-data.com and enter your chassis number etc. Find your Subaru factory part numbers and plug them into the rockauto.com search.

Usually you can come up with something. If not, then it's back to forum searches etc. In this case, you can cross the caliper from a 2002 Forester and find that it crosses to 98-02 Forester, 98-01 Impreza, and 97-01 Legacy.

This is usually how I find my parts anyways, but mileage may vary.

As for the spoiler, look for the write up coming early next week. All of the factory fasteners just arrived from Subaru yesterday and I've got four more nights until days off.

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Double-duty for a dash cam in a RHD car - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

It turns out this has been discussed previously "https://jdmvip.com/forum/InCar_Video_camera_and_display_Import_Discussion_Canada_Importing_JDM_Cars_From_Japan-1165-t"Here and "https://jdmvip.com/forum/Car_Camera_Import_Discussion_General_Discussion-2350-t"Here... but that was years ago. I'm going to splurge and start a new thread on this topic. ;)

I'm close to insuring and driving a RHD JDM Impreza I bought a few months ago. I'm not the least bit leery of shifting with my left hand, or worried about drive-thrus etc... but I admit to being a little concerned with making left turns in busy intersections when someone across from me is doing the same thing driving in the opposite direction. Their car is in my way of seeing who's coming, even to some degree when I'm driving a regular LHD vehicle. With a RHD vehicle, the situation is much much worse. 95% of my driving is within the city of Vancouver. I find myself very often sitting in an intersection, waiting for traffic to clear so I can turn left. I don't want to be in a position where I'm continually playing Russian Roulette.

So, I'm considering getting a dash cam... [Iand[/I an additional monitor. The dash cam would be performing double duty. One, it would be doing what a dash cam normally does... recording everything going on in front of the car. Secondly, in it's mounted position [Ion the far left side[/I of the windshield, it would be supplying a live video feed through it's A/V out to a small 4.3" TFT monitor positioned somewhere in front of me on the right hand side of the car. The small monitor is not to view Canuck hockey games (especially [Ithis[/I season!)... no, it's to better see who's coming towards me while turning left if/when my view of oncoming traffic is being compromised.

Prices have greatly dropped on this technology. I've checked into it and I figure the whole shebang could be bought from China/Hong Kong (through eBay) for about $50(US). Yes, seriously... and that's for a dash cam with 1080P resolution!

Has anyone else done this, and if so... how well has it worked out?

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There has been lots of talk about this but I haven't heard or seen any live examples. Be our tester please :). Honestly it sounds like a potentially helpful idea as long as you are aware of blind spots which is my only worry about using one.

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jdmvip;94121

...it sounds like a potentially helpful idea as long as you are aware of blind spots which is my only worry about using one.

Believe me, I won't be relying on [Ijust[/I the camera and monitor when I'm driving. ;)

Even today while I was driving my trusty Fiero, I noticed how many times I was turning left in busy intersections... and realized how difficult it would be to see who was coming if I was sitting a few feet over to the right hand side.

I've basically decided on the dash cam I wish to use. It's just a matter now of finding the best priced version of it on eBay that's not a low grade fake with inferior components. I haven't quite decided on the size of a monitor yet. I don't know if a 4.3" one is sufficient, or if I actually need up to a 7" one to see oncoming cars clearly enough. It might be a somewhat of challenge to fit a larger monitor in a location where it's easily seen by me, but doesn't seem obtrusive.

I'll keep you apprised of my progress. :)

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It's a good idea, I had started to look into something similar when I was looking into RHD @10yrs ago, I wanted to find a slim camera I could attach to mirror, then screen inside, I never did find what I was looking for back then, and when I finally got into RHD, I've primarily had SUV's, so sit higher and could see across, but I did have a lowered Aristo, that was hard to see, but I knew if I was going, I had the power to move me instantly :P, if I thought it would be dicey, I waited, sure people behind me would get pissed sometimes, but, I go when I know I could go


As for the screen to view, a 4.3 should be enough, as it is the quality of the video feed thats more important, bad cam= doesnt matter if its a 4" screen or 80".. it will show crappy

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Nukes25;94126

It's a good idea, I had started to look into something similar when I was looking into RHD @10yrs ago, I wanted to find a slim camera I could attach to mirror, then screen inside, I never did find what I was looking for back then...

It a good news/good news situation... as over the last decade, the technology has advanced, and the prices have plummeted!

Nukes25;94126

As for the screen to view, a 4.3 should be enough, as it is the quality of the video feed thats more important, bad cam= doesnt matter if its a 4" screen or 80".. it will show crappy.

Well... yes and no. :) With inexpensive dash cams now being capable of 1080P, the image quality is superb. (I'll probably get a "https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/complete-review-of-g1w-c-capacitor-based-dash-camera-nt96650-ar0330-1080p-30fps.3543/"G1W-C.) The problem, as I see it, is that the lenses are so wide-angled (in order to take in a wide perspective). The unfortunate result is that everything in the distance shows up as being rather small. I suspect that a 4.3" screen just won't be large enough to quickly see what [Ineeds[/I to be seen. It's [Inot[/I that much more expensive to get a 7" screen (800x480), and objects/oncoming cars will basically be displayed twice as large, so that's the route I'll go.

I believe I've found a decent location to mount the monitor as well. With the lid removed here... a lowered flat surface presents itself. This should be a good spot for the monitor base to hunker down in and be anchored.

http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2923Image:

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Vancouver98STi;94127

I'll probably get a "https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/complete-review-of-g1w-c-capacitor-based-dash-camera-nt96650-ar0330-1080p-30fps.3543/"G1W-C.
I pulled the pin and ordered one of these dash cams today. The price was [Iso[/I low, that I suspect it's a fake. I included the following message to the vendor with my PayPal payment...

"Important: If this item is not a genuine G1W-C dash cam with a NT96650 processor and Aptina AR0330 image sensor as stated in your listing, I will contact eBay and instruct PayPal to refund my purchase."

If it's a fake model with inferior components, I'll first put in a request to PayPal for a refund. If for some reason [Ithat[/I doesn't work, I'll then ask my credit card company to do a chargeback. But hey, I'm hoping this G1W-C is the real thing!

Another review of this dash cam is "http://www.bestdashboardcameras.com/g1w-g1wh-g1wc-gs108-dash-cam-review/"Here.

Image:

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Infrared Images of Brake Failure - Subaru -> Legacy

Hey Everyone, it's been a while since I posted but I thought I'd share some findings.

Recently, through the winter I had noticed what seemed like a minor dragging somewhere in the driveline, but couldn't quite pin anything down. I checked tire pressures, and discovered they were low, so naturally filled to required pressure. This seemed to improve things, but I still noticed that the car felt like something was sticking, especially when I came to a stop, and let the car coast the last little bit.

Today, I decided that when I got home from work this morning that I'd take some IR pictures (I've been trained in this at work for electrical troubleshooting) to see if there was something that could be noticed and this is what I found...

Front Left
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2919Image:

Front Right
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2920Image:

Rear Left
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2921Image:

Rear Right
http://jdmvip.com/forum/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2922Image:

Pretty sure I've got to replace another front caliper as I think the Front Right isn't retracting properly when I release the brake. If anyone is interested, the part is equivalent to a 2002 Forrester, but only the piston end, the bracket has to be salvaged from the original.

Any other thoughts?

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Nice work how much does this IR camera cost? I had the same issue with my front right on Impreza.

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You can get a nice IR camera for less than $1000 these days. Much less if you look around. I don't know what the Canadian Tire version is like. But I think you can get it for less than $500.

I use a Fluke VT02 for most of my IR stuff. Pretty sure it set me back about $1000 when I bought it, but that was a few years ago now.

But at work we use mostly FLIR and Micron. Those can get very expensive.

Now, if only I could figure out what the misfire is when the motor is cold...

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Phasewest;94130

You can get a nice IR camera for less than $1000 these days.

Those are great images, and quite helpful... but for now I'll continue to use the back of my knuckle. :)

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Do you guys think those Digital Temperature gauges would work as well? This reminds me of the less scientific version but when I had a rear right wheel bearing go on Impreza I could physically feel it was WAY hotter than all the other corners. I wonder if pointing one of those digital temp gauges at the caliper or bearing would give accurate results too? I think this is an underlooked or rated way of troubleshooting and diagnosing a lot of issues and a money saver.

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jdmvip;94183

Do you guys think those Digital Temperature gauges would work as well? I think this is an underlooked or rated way of troubleshooting and diagnosing a lot of issues and a money saver.

I think a INFRARED LASER THERMOMETER would work just fine for this purpose. I've seen them for as little as 20 bucks.

And maybe I should re-emphasize that I [Iwasn't[/I kidding about using the back of my knuckle. :o

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IR cameras are super helpful. The trick is to understand the way the technology works and apply it in a meaningful way. IR temp guns are good, but they are usually set at the factory to work at an emissivity level of 0.95. This works great on something like electrical wiring and objects of similar composition. To jdmvip, a temp gun would work fine, as long as you were pointing it at the painted or rusty surface, your results would be reasonably accurate.

For something like a shiny brake rotor, you need to make sure that you set the emissivity on your device to something like 0.6. This is because the temperature recorded is always some combination of the actual emitted IR energy and the reflected IR. For example, if you were to stand in front of a large stainless steel panel or other shiny metal object and look at it with a suitable IR camera, you would actually see your IR reflection. That's how good the tech is these days! This is also why when using these things you need to take your images at an angle, so you don't inadvertently muddy the results with heat from yourself.

Generally, if you want accurate temperatures with a simple $20 IR gun, you should place some vinyl electrical tape where you want to measure. This will give you accurate results.

An example of something that IR can do if utilized properly is locate body filler in what appears to be a pristine car. The premise is simple enough, place the car to be examined in a garage, away from direct sources of heat. This lets the body of the car normalize to ambient. Then take the car out into the sunlight and film the car with an IR camera. As the sunlight heats the bodywork, places where it is thicker (body filler) will warm up at a different rate than the rest of the car, and will show up easily as a different temperature while the bodywork warms. It also works in reverse as the thinner steel sections will cool faster when placed back in the garage than the places with body filler.

If you guys have any other questions about how this tech can be applied let me know. I generally just use it for finding loose wiring in electrical panels, but I have been trained in it's application and use for everything else too.

One last thing, Vancouver98STi, that is super dangerous. Shiny things won't emit too much IR but can be ridiculously hot depending on the surface condition. I've seen stainless steel steam piping show on IR cameras at about 40C, but were actually at about 180C. Remember, the temperature you measure (and can feel at a distance) is a combination of Emitted and Reflected IR.

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Phasewest;94185

One last thing, Vancouver98STi, that is super dangerous.

Oh come on... quickly rapping the back of my knuckle onto a brake rotor is "super dangerous"? :cool: No way. I haven't had my ugly calloused knuckle ([Iany[/I of them) stick to a hot chunk of metal yet. ;)

Your knowledge of IR cameras is impressive (and thanks for sharing!)... but I know my knuckles. :p

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A quick rap with the knuckles may not be too bad, but I've got nice scars from accidentally brushing against generator exhaust systems at work. I didn't think too much of it when I was an apprentice in my twenties, but you'd be hard pressed to see me working without long sleeves these days.

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Phasewest;94357

...I've got nice scars from accidentally brushing against generator exhaust systems at work.
Oh man, your comment took me back in time to '73... my first job out of high school. I worked for four years in a shop fixing air-cooled engines. Everything from one lung Briggs & Stratton putt-putts to V4 Wisconsin engines. They powered generators or pumps or whatever you can imagine. Because of the layout of these flat-head engines, the carburetors were always located right next to [COLOR="Red"HOT cast iron exhaust manifols. I used to burn my fingers/hands all the time while adjusting the carbs on these engines!

Here's a video I found online of an old Wisconsin V4 engine. Brings back memories (some of them painful!) from 40 years ago. :)

[youtubeyYrqiSLHMms[/youtube

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anyone familiar with the laws for importing a 49cc scooter? - Import Discussion -> United States USA - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I've been wantitng to get a motocompo for awhile now, but I havent found much good information on scooters. I swear 49cc and under use to be exempt, but the new nhsta document I was a bit confusing.

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