Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports
The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.
Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
- Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
- Car Specifications
- Reviews of JDM Cars
- Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
- Parts and Suggestions
- Engine Information
- Car Maintenance
- Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community. Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.
Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased. There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.
Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry. We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.
This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.
We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.
If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here
. We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.
-- JDMVip.com Team
Other Information About The JDM Car Market
- Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
- Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions.
Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
- Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
- Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
- JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
- Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
- JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
- You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
- We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters
Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:
- Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
- JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
- JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
- JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
- JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
- JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
- JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
- JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero
Hot Regions for JDM Cars
- Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
- Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
- Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
- Africa: South Africa
- Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
- Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.
Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums
Ok, I bought some new tires for my car before they arrived because I have the sizes from the pictures I was sent and the tires were on sale with a total of $500 for 4 new tires (which I expected to spend $800).
Now, my question, how much does it cost to typically install low profile tires?
I called Canadian Tire (who I bought the tires from) and they said it'll cost me $120 for them to install it because they are low profile and need to be done a different way from normal tires. I'm kind of skeptical as to why they would ask so much, but no matter, how much does it typically cost for a shop to do this?
I think $20 per tire is pretty normal. You'll probably get a better price at an independent tire shop.
Ok, I will try to call other shops to see if they are better priced. If not, might just go to CT because if they mess up, I can get something from them rather than an independent where it might be hard.
I was able to get my 215 40 17 repaired at an "OK tire" it was no more charge than regular. Some of the larger chains don't seem to like the challenge of low profile so they just charge more. I've never seen someone use a different machine of method with low profile, it just takes a little longer.
As the others said I +1:
[*]Don't use CT or any other large chain (they often do poor work and will scratch your rims and may install wheel weights on the outside-make sure any shop installs on the inside).
[*]There is no reason to charge extra for aluminum wheels or low profile tires but many big name shops will charge $120-$200 with the same deceptive reasoning you mention.[/LIST]
Also if you have expensive rims you don't want damaged call around and ask if they have a touch less tire mounting machine. It might cost a little more and be harder to find but with one of these, the shop doesn't use a tire iron on the face of your rims to seat the bead.
Yea, I don't think I will be going to CT or any other large chain (unless it's Costco because I like Costco). JDMVIP, I found it extremely unreal when the guy over the phone told me "We charge extra for mounting low profile tires". In my head, I was wondering why and apparently it's because they require special equipment. I called a different CT and asked them how do they mount tires (and with what equipment) and the guy answered that they only have 1 type of mounting equipment. I went to CT because they bailed me out one day. Tire on SUV went flat in the highway, got it to a nearby mall and no other shop would take me the same day. CT worker comes out and tells me I can do it in 15 minutes (when the manager said they were fully booked). Great service by the man, guess it was only the guy and not the store.
My rims are the stock RAYS WRP10 wheels. Not sure if I should spend the extra for the touchless tire mounting, what do you think?
I've done my homework as much as possible on the issue I'm having, and haven't come across a solid diagnosis yet.
My car is a version 4 1998 wrx ej20k. The issue started the second day I had the car. Note- I had put some gas in the car prior to any issues being noticed. Essentially what is happening is this:
I can be driving along at any speed.. And the car feels as though its getting a loss of fuel to the point that the car has fully shut off in some instances. The issue isn't consistent at all. It happens at low speeds, high speeds, in the city, crusing on the highway. When this happens, if I hit the gas pedal, I get no acceleration and the car bogs out. It can happen after 2 mins of driving or 20 minutes. It can happen idling in a driveway. It can happen if I baby the car and dont enter boost at all. I'm quite stumped. I drove from a neighboring city this last weekend and it did this about 3-4 times in the first 30 minutes, then I drove for almost an hour with no issue at all. Ive driven the car til empty and filled it at a reliable station and still get the same issue.
I will be changing the fuel filter, and potentially the pump this weekend, but id like to hear any input available.
Sounds like a MAP or MAF sensor problem in my opinion. I'm not a mechanic, but there are many smart people here. Just wait for them to help you.
I was just thinking about the fact that my vehicle will be realeased soon and I was wondering how some of you felt getting used to RHD. I'm thinking it's going to be really intuitive after a while but it's hard to conceptualize the idea of it. I have driven RHD before but no more than like 5 minutes.
I drove my brother's car before in Calgary's 17th avenue and it's a RHD.
It's not as hard to get used to to be honest. Biggest thing you have to really think about is the left handed shifting which really becomes muscle memory again even though if you've been driving standard your whole life on the left. I would say the hardest thing to get used to is making sure you're clear for a left hand turn at a stop light. Not bad when the roads are wide and you can easily see past the guy turning in the opposite side, but when you get a big lorry or truck, you're really going to have to watch out for a T-bone hit. I would advise to rather have the person behind you get mad than getting hit on the driver's side. :)
Apart from that, drive thrus are a pain. When my brother drives and we pass by a Timmies, I have to be the one to order so no such thing as a single person order unless you want to get out of the car and walk to the mic.
Don't think too much about the shift pattern either. It'll just confuse you more when you think about it too much, just remember that left-up is first and right-down is reverse/6th gear same as any other car.
Hardest thing for me to get used to was not drifting into the left lane as you will be very used to having your body on the left side of the lane so the new prespective takes a few weeks to get used to. You will likely also turn the wipers on a few times instead of signaling left. Getting an inspection can also be a pain because many garages don't know what to do with a JDM and will just find something BS to fail it for.
Yeah when I drove RHD for the very short time that I had; I found it easier to drive the GC8 than I did the supra. I think it was partially due to the fact that the Impreza had a little better visibility as well as being smaller in overall size. It will definitely be a learning curve.
How do you guys feel about going from LHD to RHD. My DD will be LH and my weekender will be RHD.
Some shops even refuse to service a RHD car.
I found that if I fixated my eye on the line dividing the lanes, I never drifted towards a different lane.
All this negativity, I want to add a positive. It's nice that I don't feel scared a random biker will drive up to my right when making a right turn and I hit them accidentally. I can watch it fully without any fear or less fear I guess.
I have a ver 3 STi Ej20k and I'm looking to find an upipe with an EWG\dump pipe. I see one from grim speed but it says not for RHD vehicles. Anyone know if one that's compatible or is my only option to go custom?
Does this mean you have an aftermarket turbo and external wastegate? I would think custom is the only way to go unless there is a JDM compatible EWG on Yahoo Japan.
Hi I have imported a 1997 Fairlady Z (NA) with manual transmission. The OOP shop failed it because of Neutral Safety Switch. I have googled quickly for solution unsuccessful. What options do I have for Neutral Safety Switch or what have you guys done with yours? Any shop that have installed it and rough costs.
I was charged $60 to have one installed in a Jimny a few years back.
Same thing happened with my wrx. You don't need a neutral safety switch if your car didn't come with one from factory thew. I'm 90% sure your car didn't come with one from factory so it should've passed.
you have to call someone at transport Canada or something like that and the guy will call the shop and make him pass you. There's a thread on here about who you have to call.
You should mention where you are from so we can give you the best advice especially if it's not required.
I'm in Edmonton.
If your in Edmonton, bring it to me. We do the OOP's now at the west end shop and no nonsense like that with a neutral safety switch.
Thanks William, I will PM you.
I'm ordering some basic maintenance things and I wanted to ask what is the EJ207 oil filter part numbers for:
Thanks a lot guys!
2002 wrx oem oil filter will fit
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Hey guys, I've spent far to much money and time, on 4 rebuilds of my existing Celsior steering rack and I just can't make it not leak, so 8 months later I still have no working Rack.
I've tried to source a used rack from Japan but with Tie-rods attached its too long for EMS shipping etc., Does anyone have an idea on how to source a Used rack or a rebuilt for this car? I've tried Hi Rev wreckers but they didn't have one.
1.5yrs I've owned this car and its still not on the road, it would be nice to get a rack and get it moving!
Help is appreciated!
Your situation sounds like my 161 Aristo but at least you know what the issue is caused by.
Where did you buy this Celsior from and was it not noted by the auction or dealer that the rack is bad/leaking?
I would just hit Yahoo Japan and have it shipped over.
I don't know where you live but if you contact TT automotive in edmonton, the owner has had a celsior for 8 years. It's a long shot but after owning that chassis for that long he might have a hook up. Guys name is Terrence.
RS diff review
Background: For those of you that don't know I have a 1996 E4 GSR that I converted to an RS diff removing the AYC and using a plated UKDM E9 RS diff which ends up being a 1.5 way locking diff.
Before: I noticed with the AYC that the car would slightly push into turns at high speed. So a slight bit of under-steer and I didn't feel the cars point where it would break loose was predictable. This created a sense that if pushed too hard the car would plow either into oncoming lanes of traffic or off the track. Any 4 wheel drift was front end bias and in my opinion not correctable with further throttle input or brake. Due to this I was not confident trail braking the car into turns as I wasn't confident the weight shift would cause the rear to swing around.
Two major corrections: RS diff and 24mm rear sway bar
After: I noticed a huge correction in handling and predictability. At Castrol raceway some of the straights I could get the car to 140 kmph heading into a turn. I would then trail brake the car into the turn. The cars bias shifted to over-steer causing the rear to slightly step out in a predictable way. This was great for some turns as I could step the rear out to adjust the angle of the car then re-apply power to pull it back in neutral to achieve a faster route around some corners. If I overpowered the car it would go into a slightly rear bias 4wd drift that was extremely gradual and easy to correct with slight brake and steering input. I did laps with one of the experienced racers who is a Subaru guy and has a lot of knowledge about 2 way, 1.5 way locking type diffs. He told me that most of these new characteristics are directly attributed to the diff change and he was surprised that the car was now handling so well with no AYC and no ABS.
Conclusion: If you want the car to do the work for you then fine, AYC is likely to help on the street in different condition where grip is unpredictable (rain snow etc.). I however really enjoy the rear bias that the car now has on a dry track and how utterly linear and predictable it is. My opinion is that Mitsu can keep its electronics and Ill be way happier with a mechanical diff rather than AYC, I sold my Evo X because I wanted a more raw visceral experience. This car is way more enjoyable on the track, (keeping in mind I was a long time owner of an Evo X as well for comparison) and far more rewarding when you can tell everyone you kicked their butt with no driver aids. My car is incredibly predictable and I would not go back to the original set up ever.
His ad on kijiji is down and I need something from him, anyone have his contact e-mail ?
Original Canadian owner[/U]
[U]Contact - Call or text 403 700 1049[/U]
Looking to sell my daily driver Subaru GF8 wagon. It's an extremely rare factory modified Tommy kaira M20B.
I am the first owner since it was imported, I have done extensive preventative maintenance during my ownership to ensure it's reliability as my daily driver.
Included with the vehicle are two sets of wheels. The 17" summer wheels in the photos need new tires, and currently mounted are a good set of toyo winter tires on oem Subaru 15" alloy rims.
There are numerous factory modifications done by tommy kaira in Japan.
Tommy kaira body kit and spoiler
Tommy kaira 260 kmh cluster ( car tops out at ~270kmh)
Tommy kaira carbon fibre centre console mounted with 3 tommy kaira gauges for boost, oil pressure and oil temperature
Italvolanti imola rs steering wheel
Momo aluminum shift knob
Custom door cards with 2 speaker locations per door
ARC Aluminum intercooler and piping
ARC Air intake
Tommy kaira front strut tower bar
Tommy kaira light weight flywheel
Tommy kaira light weight aluminum under drive pulleys
Zero sports brushed stainless steel rad shroud and hood scoop intercooler ducting
Tommy kaira suspension - different damping and spring rates
Fujitsubo Stainless Downpipe back exhaust
Tommy kaira tuned ecu
2 Maruko rally horns - VERY loud
Tommy kaira lug nuts
Here's the list of preventative maintenance I've performed since I purchased the car. There's probably a few things I forgot
Timing belt and all idlers
Oil pump and seals
Intake manifold gaskets
Valve cover gaskets
Grim speed exhaust manifold/up pipe/Downpipe gaskets. All double thick steel gaskets
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
All new hoses where ever possible
New intercooler piping couplers
Transmission oil changed with redline
New pads and rotors all around
Replaced front caliper- was seized
Oil changes with full synthetic(not syn blend) every 5k. With oem filter.
Upgrades performed by me -
2004 wrx Coilpack conversion with oem Subaru parts
Walbro 255lph pump
Pioneer app radio double din touchscreen nav head unit.
6 channel alpine amp running the 4 door speakers and 2 rear speakers- all aftermarket
10" sub with bassworx box and separate amp in trunk.
Sound great and the head unit works seamlessly.
I also have a stainless catless bellmouth Downpipe sitting in my garage for it
Over all it's a super fun year round reliable daily driver, that gets very reasonable fuel economy. Costs ~$50-60 to fill and gets around 500 km to a tank. Very clean interior, with lots of room. I'm 6'2" and sitting comfortable I can easily fit a person of similar size in the seat behind me. the only reason I gave into selling it is because I need to buy a diesel truck for towing.
I can pretty much guarantee you won't find another tommy kaira for sale in the world right now. 400 tommy kaira subaru's ever made, the majority were bugeyes, and most of this generation were 4 door sedans so it's very rare.
Most km's are highway driving back and forth between home and work. Exclusively ran on shell v power ethanol free fuel.
Please don't hesitate to contact me with any questions
Priced for a quick sale, however may be open to reasonable offers.
Unfortunately because Ive been lurking this forum and only just created an account now i cant link to photos or my kijiji ad.
Searching Tommy kaira or the ad number in kijiji will take you to my ad with photos.
Im looking for a jzx90 mark2 5spd prefered low km prefered but will consider any and all cars, local or import thanks
Hey guys, looking for the following parts. Have PayPal and will pay post.
SW20 ARC intercooler
VeilSide water temperature and EGT gauge
JC Cosmo ARC intercooler
GReddy 3 bar boost gauge
TRust 21 row oil cooler
ARC oil cooler
Work Modena centre nut spanner + centre caps
Welcome to the forums do you own a JDM?
It may be worth it to request them here: http://jdmvip.com/JDMVip_CarPart_Referral_Service-57-articles
Thanks, I'll give that a go. These parts will be going into my Z32.
From whereabouts Canada are you from?
Canada? I'm in Sydney.
[QUOTE=Anti;90463]Canada? I'm in Sydney.[/QUOTE]
Considering you are in Australia, Perfectrun.jp would be a great place to look! If they don't have the part you are looking for in their website, you can always contact them and ask if they can special order it for you!
I am going to be buying some parts from there but as I am in Canada, the shipping will be much more expensive. They are based in Australia/Japan so you will get a really good price!
It's good being close to J-land - definitely saves on shipping. These parts I'm after are all long discontinued though so places like RHD Japan, Nengun and Perfect Run aren't much help. Thank you though.
Oh, I thought you'd be able to ask them to find one for you since on HKS website, my part wasn't listed as being made anymore but perfectrun could find it for me.
I hope you find your parts though! Best of luck! (:
Looking for good places to buy some aftermarket or even OEM stuff for my EVO V
I know of;
- Indigo GT
But looking preferably in Canada.
There are some places in Alberta, Ontario and Quebec but I don't know any in particular and some are known to be dishonest.
Shipping is often cheap from Asia or the Middle East as long as the items aren't large. If you need lots of large/heavy items it sounds silly but buy a new car and ship it via container and fill it with parts.
I have found for the larger items to just go to the manufacturers site and look at their distributor list for North america. The bigger distributors are bringing in stock every month so the shipping can be mitigated that way.
Does anyone know if Tomei's Ti Titanium CB exhaust fits on the Evo 5?
I was also looking at the HKS Hi-Power exhaust system which is a fair bit kinder to my wallet.
Does anyone suggest or recommend a different exhaust?
It would have to be modified to fit, being titanium you wouldn't be able to find anyone to do that.... at least cheap....
Ive has HKS Hi power with their downpipe before and I liked it.
Currently I built my own exhaust and that's my favorite but for ease of install Id go HKS.
How's the sound on the HKS? I am looking for one that'll be louder than stock but not obnoxiously loud.
Is it a deep growl/throaty type of exhaust?
I am skeptical just basing it on videos I find since a friend bought an exhaust based on the sound on videos and IRL, it was just tragic.
Also, other than ordering off eBay and resellers, do you know where I could find one used? Should be a fair bit cheaper if I buy used.
Any other suggestions for an exhaust system?
They are pretty hard to find used. I've seen them on kijiJi but that's like once a year. The hi-power is loud and a very deep sound. If it's too loud you could just add a resonator. I really liked mine, I didn't think it was too loud only because hks also makes the super drager and its crazy loud so by comparison it's there mid range system.
I don't know where you live but the other option would be to get a shop to weld up a 3" mandrel bent system and then you could just choose your muffler. I'm running a magnaflow muffler from their tuner series and I really like it.
Hopefully I can find one for sale on Kijiji.
Approximately how much did it cost you to go custom?
Oh, btw, for the HKS, do I just get the Evo 8/9 hks exhaust?
Would I need to modify the HKS hi power exhaust for the evo 8/9 to fit the evo 5 or is it a complete plug and play?
There should be 4,5,6 specific exhaust and down-pipe. Prepare to modify some hangers at minimum if you buy the exhaust for an 8.
To do a completely custom 3" turbo back your looking at about $500-$600 in parts, muffler, flex joint for the down pipe, o2 bung, flange, various hangers, a bunch of mandrel bends and straight pipe and some ceramic paint and header wrap. Then you have to find someone who is willing to weld it together for cheap....
[QUOTE=Slowboi;90428]There should be 4,5,6 specific exhaust and down-pipe. Prepare to modify some hangers at minimum if you buy the exhaust for an 8.
To do a completely custom 3" turbo back your looking at about $500-$600 in parts, muffler, flex joint for the down pipe, o2 bung, flange, various hangers, a bunch of mandrel bends and straight pipe and some ceramic paint and header wrap. Then you have to find someone who is willing to weld it together for cheap....[/QUOTE]
Alright, I could only find like two websites that sold the 4,5,6 specific HKS exhaust. Nengun being one of them but I've heard some mixed reviews about them. Are they good or bad?
If I really can't find my HKS, I might as well go the ARK or Tomei way since it will cost quite a bit either way.
I have no experience through nengun .... I bought my hks exhaust through Ryan at Vex performance and they gave me a fair price....
The Vex Performance in Calgary, right? I'll give them a call tomorrow or something to see if they have something for me.
If you don't mind saying, how much did they charge you?
After looking at pictures of my car again (I am out of the country so I can't just go to the garage and look at the car), I think I have a silencer installed which I may take out before I decide on a new exhaust.
Sorry I can't remember what they charged me however I do remember it was equivalent to the cheapest online price and I got to support a local business so I went with them....
Oh man, that is so lucky... I don't even know what website/supplier to go with. Do you have any recommendations on where to purchase one if not a local business?
Thanks for all the help, you've been very helpful! (:
I would try these guys too:
They are supposed to be the master distributor for hks in Canada
[QUOTE=Slowboi;90434]I would try these guys too:
They are supposed to be the master distributor for hks in Canada[/QUOTE]
Have you ever heard of perfectrun.jp? They have really good parts + prices... I don't know them that well though.
Yep I've heard of them. They have good stuff, the only thing is they have one location in Australia and he other in Japan so shipping is a little expensive....
[QUOTE=Slowboi;90443]Yep I've heard of them. They have good stuff, the only thing is they have one location in Australia and he other in Japan so shipping is a little expensive....[/QUOTE]
Alright, so I'll give Vex Performance a call when I can and see if they have an exhaust for my car that I'll like... and if not, then I'll be ordering through Perfectrun since they have the best price for the HKS Hi-Power from all the websites I've seen.
This is off topic from the main purpose of this thread (Exhausts) but would you or anyone else know if the Volk te37's are worth the money or if there is a different wheel that is more wallet friendly but still amazing to look at?
I actually very much like the look of the Enkei EV5's as well but a couple people have pointed me to the Varrstoen ES2 (TE37 reps).
I'm skeptical of the structural integrity of the Varrstoen ES2's. As for the Enkei's, would the 18x7.5 fit an Evo 5 properly? Also, where would I be able to get the Enkei's? I've looked at TireRack, Amazon, and VividRacing; I just haven't heard of VividRacing before, have any of you?
Sorry I can't comment on e5 fitment since I have a 4. I can tell you vivid racing has been around forever and they are legit. As far as te37's are concerned they are worth it and a great wheel. If you are going to buy a knock off of the te37 I would go for the rota grid ... I think is the name through wheel dude.com. I've owned Rotas before and they were fine, just not as durable as a forged wheel( they are cast) Currently I am running desmond wheels which are about $2500 a set and are super light.
Awesome, another source for parts added to the list!
I was asking VEXPerformance to tune my Evo and they told me that I'd need to purchase an aftermarket ecu to get it tuned.
Wouldn't it be possible to tune my vehicle with the factory ecu?
It is possible to reflash the Evo 5/6 ecu but no one I know of in Canada will tune using that interface. I would check mlr to see what the specs on that are. Lots of guys do this in the UK. If you go with vex they will likely do a vipec ecu. They are very good at tuning with vipec it's just more expensive for the hardware.
If I were to get a new exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, 1100 cc injectors... wouldn't I need to get my car tuned? How would I go about tuning it if I don't get an aftermarket ecu?
I'm just worried that if I were to get these mods, my car would see issues quickly if I don't get it tuned.
[QUOTE=Shoxie;90476]If I were to get a new exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, 1100 cc injectors... wouldn't I need to get my car tuned? How would I go about tuning it if I don't get an aftermarket ecu?
I'm just worried that if I were to get these mods, my car would see issues quickly if I don't get it tuned.[/QUOTE]
Most definitely. I'm pretty sure you can develop knock from just an intake on turbocharged vehicles. Alters fuel/air so I'm sure an exhaust and especially injectors would cause issues. If you're not comfortable learning to tune the vehicle yourself (or just eliminate knock) then you're pretty much limited to either finding a remote tuner (which personally I would never do) or coughing up the $$$ for an aftermarket ECU.
Just curious why the 1100cc's? I'm positive 750cc is good to like 500HP.
Oh and if you were to install injectors you'd most definitely need a tune, and that's a little tougher than just eliminating knock. Then you've got to mess around with injector duty cycle, injector pulse width and stuff.
Someone on a different forum suggested 1100cc for my vehicle.
Honestly, I would play around with tuning it myself... I just don't know if the scarce guides for tuning older evos are accurate enough to actually learn how to do it properly.
I just get a tactrix cable and its adapter + extension cable to be able to connect it to a computer right? What program(s) should I use to tune my Evo?
Sorry man I don't know the programming end, I havnt researched that myself. Again mlr would be the source. I can tell you though 750cc injectors will support nearly 500 hp depending on the type of fuel. I don't know what power levels you are shooting for but 1100 cc is way too much unless your shooting for the sky.
There are injector size calculators online you could plug in some numbers and see what they suggest.
[QUOTE=Slowboi;90487]Sorry man I don't know the programming end, I havnt researched that myself. Again mlr would be the source. I can tell you though 750cc injectors will support nearly 500 hp depending on the type of fuel. I don't know what power levels you are shooting for but 1100 cc is way too much unless your shooting for the sky.
There are injector size calculators online you could plug in some numbers and see what they suggest.[/QUOTE]
Alright, thanks for the advice! I'll probably just go for 850s (middle of the range) and with that I don't think I'd ever need to upgrade my injectors again.
Right now, the biggest issue I have is the tuning. I've thought of buying the tactrix cables and components to tune my car myself but it would be quite dangerous considering I have no idea how accurate and trustworthy the guides I've read are.
As I stated prior, I contacted VEXPerformance and they suggested I either go for an APEXi or Haltech aftermarket ecu. If I were to go with this option, should I go with the APEXi or the Haltech? I'd like to know which of these two ecu's would allow me to go to another tuner (if VEXPerformance does not live up to its reputation or some other rare reason) if need be and performance (performance of the ecu; functionality, versatility, and flexibility).
I know past the 400hp while increasing torque proportional to the gains in hp would need me to change the internals of the stock block.
Haltech would have more support in North America by far. That's what I'd go for but it wouldn't be cheap....
[QUOTE=Slowboi;90494]Haltech would have more support in North America by far. That's what I'd go for but it wouldn't be cheap....[/QUOTE]
Someone told me of Lightspeed Innovations in Red Deer, Alberta and apparently they can tune a factory ecu Evo 5 if the customer brings their tactrix cable with the Mitsu adapter and ecuflash (not sure if I need to just bring my version of choice on a USB or not).
If they can do it, then I finally have an affordable solution for tuning my car. If not, then I'll have to go with the Haltech...
So someone just told me that his friends brought their cars to Lightspeed Innovations and they, apparently, put highest hp possible over engine reliability. I should just request them to limit hp to about 375 and limit torque, correct?
Thought process: At about 400 hp, the stock block would be moderately unreliable. Even at 375 hp, the stock block would be unreliable, but by limiting the torque produced, the engine should stay reliable (cams/rods aren't pushed past their limits).
10/10...I do not recommend lightspeed to anyone. So many horror stories on WSC including shoddy business practices, terrible customer service, and questionable "tuning" methods.. including a car fire :P
I was told that by some other people on Facebook and they all just told me to get my car E-tuned. Two of them set me up with tuners already, just gotta decide which one is better now and for the best price!
I am still thinking of going the Evo 7 ECU route and a tune from Airboy.
[QUOTE=tperkins;90513]I am still thinking of going the Evo 7 ECU route and a tune from Airboy.[/QUOTE]
That is a good route too, it was an option of mine but I think just getting a remote tuner to do it for me is gonna be a lot easier. Also this way, I can learn how to tune it myself along the way!
Yeah, that's a benefit. E-tune is painless.
[QUOTE=tperkins;90517]Yeah, that's a benefit. E-tune is painless.[/QUOTE]
How much does an Evo 7 cost to acquire (including shipping + gst + duties if needed to ship or has imported)?
I don't know yet, still haven't tracked one down.
The going rate is somewhere between $6-800 IF you can find one.... What part number are you guys looking for?
I was able to secure an E7 ECU from a friend in Japan. Part number MR560648. It will take a while for shipping, hopefully it turns out to be a good used ECU.
I honestly don't know if I need a new oil pan or not. Regardless of that fact I've become obsessed with finding the correct part for the Aristo oil pan, both upper and lower. I know it's not the same as the Supra but that's about all I can really find for sure.
If anyone knows, just so I can have some peace of mind it would be greatly appreciated.
Never mind, I think I found them.
If I'm wrong correct me, delete the thread or leave it as a monument to my failures.
This is very useful if those are correct.
If you haven't used this I'm sure you will find them here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1998_TOYOTA_ARISTO_JZS161-BEPVZ.html
9006/HB4 (very cheap and easy to find anywhere).
The fog lamp comes out with just 2 philips screws that are accessible from the front.
D2R (I believe D2S works fine according to what I've read).
These cost a fortune from Toyota (I believe about $175 USD each).
They are just a D2R bulb which can be found much cheaper anywhere else.
I have heard of some people having to adjust or hack the plastic tab on the bulb to make it fit the Toyota headlamp.
Below is a helpful guide on accessing and replacing this D2R bulb since it's not as straight forward as some other cars:
There are two options for our cars (Double Platinum plugs with dual electrodes):
Denso 3253 PK20TR11
NGK's cost me about $84 CAD with discount.
Denso's cannot be found locally in Canada.
Denso's cost me about $36 USD in the US shipped so cost wise they are the best and should be equivalent to the NGK's.
I believe the Denso was OEM from the factory.
Well I tried to go out to the 780 tuners season opener but it was so ridiculously packed that a bunch of Evo guys went for a cruise and we got some pics taken.
Special thanks to local racer http://mrlancer.com/ for the free photo shoot!
Here are some JDM evo pics:
Great shots, your bumper looks so good now that it is all painted.
Amazing and yes +1 for the bumper, it must feel great to drive the car after all the handy work you've put into it!
Thanks for the compliments guys, yeah it's nice to have the car out and on the road. I will be at castrol raceway next weekend to do my fia licensing for time attack. I plan on getting to the track this year hopefully as much as I can.
Hey all was wondering how hard it is to install a turbo timer and what is a good brand.
If you have the wiring diagrams for your vehicle, and you're relatively comfortable with electronics, (specifically reading wiring diagrams and splicing/soldering wires), most installations aren't very complicated.
As for brand I've only ever installed one timer and it was in my friends 2006 legacy gt, we installed an Apexi or HKS i think... Worked great for him. The blitz DTT (dual turbo timer) is a more complicated install since it has the option of reading vehicle speed as well.
I know for some vehicles there are harnesses you can buy that will make the install 100% easier. Basically plug and play. We didn't use one though.
Personally, I can't justify the $$ for buying a timer since i make a conscious effort to just let the car idle 30-40 seconds before I turn it off while I collect my things etc after a spirited drive. Either that, or I make sure I don't do any unnecessary "turboing" on the last 1-2 mins of my drive. Basically doing the job of a turbo timer without an actual turbo timer.
Most modern ones are usually multiple units in one (eg. turbo timer and remote start) and I would think even cheap ones these days would be alright. As for installation you'd need to tap into the ignition and it's something I personally wouldn't mess with without diagrams or pro help.
As for protecting the turbos the best thing you can do if you're not already is to run a good synthetic oil. The reason for a turbo timer AFAIK is to keep circulating oil through the turbos to prevent damage while the turbine keeps turning. EvoNorth offers good advice in that way (try to boost or drive less hard if you know when you'll arrive somewhere).
Very good point.
So let's say if you've been driving off boost for your trip, you should hit boost once nearing your destination?
So let's say if you've been driving off boost for your trip, you should hit boost once nearing your destination?[/QUOTE]
I believe jdmvip jut mistyped is all.
As a general rule, if your car has a turbo and you DO NOT have a turbo timer installed/being used, regardless of whether or not you've been driving hard (hitting boost), you should give the engine 30 seconds to a minute or so to sit at idle before you turn it off. This is because even if you did not hit boost, the turbine/compressor spin at extraordinarily high speeds whenever there is exhaust gas flowing (anytime the engine is running, your turbo is spinning). This heats up the turbo bearing where the oil goes, in turn heating the oil. If you don't give the oil time to circulate at the turbo's lowest speed (engine idle), the very hot oil can cause blockages in the bearing when it cools (and thickens, since it stops circulating very soon after engine shut down).
Contrary to this, you should also give a turbocharged engine a minute or so after START UP to allow oil to get hotter and thin out a little to help better lubricate the turbo before driving.
Both of these practices will lengthen the life of your turbo.
None of the above applies if you have a ball bearing turbo. (Usually, stock turbos are oil fed though).
Thanks for clearing that up, I usually warmed up my car until the idle dropped and waited until it reached normal temp before driving normally. Also for longer drives over 2 hours is it better to let the car sit for a few minutes or is 30 seconds good enough?
So let's say if you've been driving off boost for your trip, you should hit boost once nearing your destination?[/quote]
Sorry about the above but North read my mind and cleared it up lol.
[quote=EvoNorth;90393]I believe jdmvip jut mistyped is all.
Yes thanks for clearing that up. I meant you should boost less and drive less harder before reaching your destination. Wouldn't it be cool if boosting more was better before shutting off the car lol:D
[QUOTE=rJZx;90398]Thanks for clearing that up, I usually warmed up my car until the idle dropped and waited until it reached normal temp before driving normally. Also for longer drives over 2 hours is it better to let the car sit for a few minutes or is 30 seconds good enough?[/QUOTE]
Sorry for the delayed response. I'm on nightshift so I've been out cold.
The length of your drive isn't too big of a factor, the biggest one is your style of driving during the last ~5 minutes of any trip.
Think of it this way; higher your RPMs go, faster the turbo spins, faster the turbo spins, hotter the oil gets. If your drive into the boost range consistently during the last part of your trip, you should let the car sit. For how long is totally up to you, but 30 seconds to a minute at idle is what most turbo timers do anyways. This is just to let the oil in the turbo reach a nice, normal, operating temperature rather than the extreme high temperatures of when the turbo is spinning ridiculously fast (boost).
If you drive the car WITHOUT boosting for the last few minutes of any trip, 30 seconds should be more than enough. Oil is thick, and one of it's three purposes in combustion engines is to "cool" things down (lubricate and seal being the others) so a few minutes really isn't necessary.
TLDR; Length of the drive has little effect on how long you should let the car sit for. It's more the style of driving. If you boost during the last few minutes, give it 30s to a minute. If you don't boost and "grandma drive it" during those last few minutes, you could give it under 30 seconds.
As a side note, oil frequently hitting very high temperatures is why turbocharged cars also have lower recommended kilometres between oil changes.
Awesome info thank guys.