Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports
The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.
Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
- Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
- Car Specifications
- Reviews of JDM Cars
- Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
- Parts and Suggestions
- Engine Information
- Car Maintenance
- Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community. Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.
Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased. There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.
Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry. We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.
This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.
We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.
If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here
. We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.
-- JDMVip.com Team
Other Information About The JDM Car Market
- Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
- Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions.
Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
- Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
- Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
- JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
- Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
- JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
- You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
- We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters
Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:
- Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
- JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
- JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
- JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
- JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
- JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
- JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
- JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero
Hot Regions for JDM Cars
- Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
- Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
- Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
- Africa: South Africa
- Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
- Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.
Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums
Hey guys so I'm pretty excited about this gamble I took. I was looking for something to remove the cloudiness from my Aristo and Legacy headlights and also something that would be better than hand for applying wax but wasn't ready to buy a PC (I was about to but I rarely have time to wash let alone wax and break out a machine like this). Try saying this on a detailing forum and survive:D.
I can't even remember how I found this Wen 6010, it may be that as with many things I was searching on eBay (but no seller there could ship to Canada). Eventually I found this Wen 6010 Polisher for about [URL="http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0000AXOHT/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=330641&creativeASIN=B0000AXOHT&linkCode=as2&tag=jdmvip-20"]$30 CAD shipped to my door on Amazon.[/URL] (my cost was actually $40 because I bought an extra bonnet kit-the Chicago tools 8 pack).
[I]*Excuse my ghetto ethernet run in the pic below:eek:[/I]
Why did I choose it? Because it is a random orbital polisher that does 4000 OPM (orbits per minute) which should mean it's totally safe (unlike rotaries which can quickly burn your paint). Some claim that "you might as well wax by hand unless you use a Porter Cable", but I wasn't buying that my hand could keep up with 4000 orbits per minute, let alone 400 per minute! Besides waxing by hand gets old very fast and even faster when using compound, it is exhausting and takes a lot of time and can't produce anywhere near the results of a higher powered orbital polisher (not even this cheap $30 unit apparently!).
Since the price was super cheap, it had to be bad and all the "detailing forums" swore that anything but a PC/Porter Cable is evil, can't correct paint, and will definitely make the paint fly off your car and will break on the first try.
I would have stuck with the above but I actually read some fairly detailed reviews on Amazon of people describing removing paint defects with this machine.
I just want to start off by showing the results with this machine and keep in mind I've never used any polisher before.
The results before are with the included terry cloth bonnet and using [URL="http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00F653IOO/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=330641&creativeASIN=B00F653IOO&linkCode=as2&tag=jdmvip-20"]Meguiars Ultimate Compound (an aggressive but safe cutting abrasive/polish).[/URL]
A very sad and cloudy right headlamp on the Legacy (for some reason the other is fine):
After a few minutes and two passes:
[I]*Note that the cloudiness is all gone, what you see on the top is some weird lighting/reflection.[/I][URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2042"]Image:
I did the same on my Aristo but never took pics and had them polished in Japan and they weren't really any better when they got here (still very cloudy or the same). At some point I used compound by hand and they improved a bit but nothing compared to the like new finish this cheap Wen unit gave me.
Based on just my headlight cleaning I was more than happy with the results of my $40 investment that wasn't supposed to be so great according to others. This cheap 4000 OPM unit was able to easily remove the oxidation and restore my headlights like new so need for those useless kits they sell in the stores.
Now for more
Some may have remembered our new Legacy came in with some heavy and unexpected scratches on the right side, all over the door handles and on the panels themselves. I told myself at the time "I can compound this out" but I was a bit worried/doubtful.
[I]*Focus on the scratching where the two door panels meet (the camera could hardly pick it up but it looked worse in real life).[/I]
There's also a lot of water etching on the rear door panel (it did not come off with washing).
After a few minutes
[I]*Notice all the scratches and water etching are all gone! (aside from the inside handle portion since it's impossible to get any unit in there).[/I]
I haven't had time to use this unit more but I'm very impressed for obvious reasons and believe this will restore the car to a like-new finish and will easily remove the less minor defects and oxidation elsewhere. Based on how well this cheap unit has worked and knowing from experience that a.) I could never get these results by hand and b.) That lesser result would have taken ages and I would be very tired.
To summarize I'm super happy with this cheap unit. Even if it only works a few more times I couldn't have paid a detail shop $40 to get these results. I'll post more about the operation and tips/tricks on how to use the unit if people ask me to or may make a new thread. I'm shocked at how easy this unit is a for a n00b like me (this is the first machine I've ever used).
I just wanted to add a few more points for the review.
Easy To Use
Requires two hands to use it precisely and hold it stably (though any random orbital does).
Fairly strong vibration (normal for random orbitals even the Porter Cable).
Bonnets are just OK but what do you want for $25? They're not of the highest quality (ignore comments about the foam pad breaking off or shredding, that is no foam pad but the backing and cushion that bonnets are placed on-why would anyone try to buff without a bonnet?).
I only used the terry bonnet, it is not thick but works great for cutting despite it not being ideal for it (imagine how well it would work with a proper cutting pad).
How To Use It:
Put on the correct bonnet (it is an elastic style that slips over the backing plate).
Apply your polish/wax/sealant to the bottom of the pad.
Place the bonnet against the surface of the car
Turn the unit on (make sure it is against the surface or you will sling product everywhere).
Apply even but minimal pressure to the unit so it still spins fast and makes contact. It should just be enough pressure to hold the unit, as the weight is enough to do the rest.
Move the unit in uniform motions from left to right and don't fight the unit (it naturally wants to move left to right and up).
The above takes practice but even a noob like me got it figured it fairly quickly. One tip is to use the unit at an angle if you find you're using too much pressure and try to look at the angle/contact point to get the pressure and positioning just right.
Random Comments/Annoyance with the net:
There is so much misinformation for noobs out there and I'm a bit annoyed by it. I know this unit is probably not as good as the high-end ones but it absolutely works well and 4000 OPM was enough for me to quickly polish out paint defects (all the forums for detailing say only units like the PC can get paint defects out). I was skeptical of that claim since I was able to remove paint defects by hand though :).
I'm not sure if this only applies to the GC8 or only GC8 Version 1 STi but this is a pretty cool find.
I recall reading things on various sites and Wikis that believed some STi's were literally sold and rolled off the factory line as a plain WRX and then modified to be an STi.
Here's the proof below for those who can understand all this madness.:D
1.) See the chassis below in Subaru FAST, it is a WRX. But trust me this is no WRX unless someone went to every bit of detail to fake an STi. I believe 100% that this is truly an STi but the factory records it as a WRX as the STi bits were added after the fact at STi itself!
Now see below why I know this is an STi.
1.) STi seats (yes you may say they could have been added but read the next points).
Look very carefully at the very right in the vertical center.
You can see the factory IC Waterspray button (the WRX never had this, well only WRX RA at that time).
3.) Factory Nardi STi steering wheel (this is 100% unique to the version 1 STi, no other model had it like below, not even the STi II).[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2039"]Image:
4.) The final bit to complete the picture.
The STi I/II Silver Slanty intercooler.
Tuned by STi sticker in the right spot.
Physical IC waterspray container
I'm not sure about the strutbar but it may have been factory also.
This car also has a factory Fujitsubo exhaust that the STi also had.[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2040"]Image:
Considering the above here's the first live/proof that at least the STi Version I rolled out of the factory as a normal WRX.
It was then sent off to STi for tuning, engine built by hand and the STi bits that I noted above added.
I just thought it was pretty cool to have proof from an actual example of the above for Subaru/Impreza nuts like me.
Hi, I was wondering if someone can explain what E-Code type headlights is and how to recognize if your headlight unit falls under this category. I already googled it but i still don't understand
It's fairly easy, you will literally see "E"-somenumber marked on the headlamp.
E-Code headlights are considered DOT equivalent and will pass. Make sure the shop understands this before going there, but a shop who knows JDMs should already know.
is there something offical that I can print off before going for my safety?
hmm I can't find DOT and E-Code labels on my headlights (S15).... does anyone know a solution to this?
I think someone had a thread before about headlights for an S15, but I can't find it. I think the phrase "S15" is too short for searches :(
[QUOTE=YvR WC;86179]hmm I can't find DOT and E-Code labels on my headlights (S15).... does anyone know a solution to this?[/QUOTE]
Look's like your going to have to fab up anouther light that fits and dot approved .
ie. prelude headlights on a r32 skyline fit and are dot approved but not as nice as the orginal.
If you are in Alberta, I talked to the mechanic expert for Alberta Transportation and he said DOT / E marked headlights are considered pass. Also, tires do not need to have the DOT stamp on them, they just need to have the load ratings. If you have a problem with the shop accepting these, tell them to call the Minister because some shops still use the old guidelines which have been thrown out already. :)
Here in Nova Scotia when i had my S15 inspected they didnt care about my dot rating on anything. Didnt even check. It came with brand new bridgestones so when i came to the headlights they didnt even bother checking
Is there a fix for the AYC's failure under extremely cold temperatures? I will probably have to park outside in the cold and am wondering how I am going to prevent my pump from failing during the colder months?
I kind of don't want to use AYC fluid other than the recommended Mitsu Diaqueen.
Not that I'm aware of but there had been some talk of attached external oil pan heaters to it.
Hello everyone, I just stumbled across this forum a few hours ago and i had some questions i was hoping some of you may be able to answer for me.
For the past 2-years i've been interested in importing a Toyota Crown to the US, However i've found little to almost no information in regards to the restrictions on this vehicle. As of this moment i have my eye on a 2013 Toyota Crown Athlete, If anyone would kindly point me to some resources or let me know if this vehicle is allowed in the US and if so what are its requirements, Id really appreciate it.
As far as I know the vehicles need to be 25 years old or older to import to the US... I.E. 1989 or older.
The legal and proper way is going to cost you huge money, better off buying a Maybach 62S as its cheaper and probably a bit nicer :D
Adding another car to the fleet, so I figured I would make a picture/progress/journal thread now. The car arrives in Halifax next week:D
The car was a 3.5/C grade with 112K, and looks to be in pretty good shape. Mostly stock, which I wanted, save for the coilovers(look to be TEIN). I've been trying to convince myself not to paint it or go to crazy... but we will see haha:cool:
Looking nice Urb, well those TEINs are a good score as they are not cheap even when used and probably rare for your car. This kind of looks like a 2-door Yaris on steroids in a good way, it has an agressive front end, nice rear ring and sporty interior. It looks like it had a front lip that was removed before auction because of the holes in the bottom portion of the bumper?
How many HP does this guy make and what drive? I would bet either way it's practically a go-kart, how much does it weigh?
The late model ones had a front lip from the factory that has been removed... I'll find one later this year along with the rear lip. The car is rated at 135HP and weighs 2080LBS I think. Pretty easy to get them up to 180HP with the original turbo:). If those are Teins I really hope they ride better then the GC8 ones lol...
I'm going to be moving to Vancouver/Burnaby/New West Area, are there any regularly scheduled car meets? (revscene/cars n coffee?) I'm bring my Evo5
I'm sure there are different ones with smaller crowds, but the revscene one is the biggest regular one I know of. I think it's Thursdays at Market Crossing.
Cool, yes there is RevScene Thursday's at Market Crossing in Burnaby that some of our members have gone to. We do our own meets and had a fairly big one last time and we can always organize more whenever people have time. I'd love to see the EVO V!
Hey all. I just listed this B4 Legacy in the in transit stock and it’s getting to BC port on August 11th. Here are the details on it:
1999 Subaru Legacy B4 RSK
4 speed auto with sport shift mode
276HP EJ208 twin turbo engine
All wheel drive
Mods – HID headlights and CD player.
This car is a high auction grade and under 80K on the odometer so is pretty straight forward.
Price is $4500.00 which includes our fee, the car, export from Japan, ocean freight to Canada, and all related import fees in Canada (gst duty, customs clearance, etc.) As well as having us handle all of the paperwork for you until the keys are in your hand. Basically the only thing left to pay except further shipping from Vancouver, BC if needed and inspection / registration costs. Can arrange shipping further into Canada if requested.
Details are here [url]http://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=1269[/url]
Nice car, really great price too.
but that really cant be considered a manual.. can it?
Oops.... Was listed as manual in error. Corrected now.
No worries, just one more thing is that the engine in the autos is the EJ206 which makes 260BHP (wish the autos had EJ208 too!).
Is there a intercooler kit for gt-b's tried looking can't find one?
Replacement for the top mount? I think I've seen used ARC ones, but ARC stuff is expensive. Probably the best thing you can get is a Zerosports splitter that goes in the intake vent.
This guys out of japan and at one time sold a new manifold to adapt a front mount. You could contact him and give that a try.
Ya for the top mount.
Where can I find a listing of all full sized JDM sedans along with their specs. Everytime I think I'm familiar with them all I come across another. I saw the Nissan Fuga today for the first time
Auction sites have all the listings of all cars for sale in Japan.
[QUOTE=Sastrad;86098]Auction sites have all the listings of all cars for sale in Japan.[/QUOTE]
In trying to select models I'd like to be able to pick them by size, like all cars with a wheelbase between 2700mm & 2800mm, no matter the make. I know I've seen it on one of those sites like Beforward but I don't see it now.
Hey guys, im in desperate need of some rear rotors for my type RA. I have the 4 pot 2 pot setup. For the fronts I used 06 WRX rotors & 300zx pads but I cant seem to find rear rotors that will fit. The 06 WRX ones are extremely close but the drum for the brake shoes are just too small. Has anyone had to swap rotors on their V5 STI RA? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
AFAIK your only option is the DBA Gravel rotor. It's made for rally STi's that run the 4/2 pot set up so they can run smaller wheels.
The lack of choice of rear rotor is a concern to me as well, so I'm actually considering converting to Brembos since they're plug and play.
Does anyone know about these cars?
IIRC 2L F series motor, essentially a smaller bore H22, with an iron block. Made 200hp. Some came with LSD tranny from prelude. These motors were good for boost because you are able to swap pistons and all the aftermarket head components from h22 swap directly over.
All in all good cars,
So I just called Alberta Transportation and asked a couple questions regarding the OOP/OPI inspection on an Evo 6.
The guy (after being transferred to a more mechanically inclined person) named Bob had informed me that:
Headlights do not need the DOT markings, only the (E) symbol. If I were to be failed on the lack of DOT markings on the headlights, he told me to call him so that he could inform the shop of the actual inspection requirements. He said the same thing regarding the taillights.
For the tires, he said that they do not need any tire markings other than the normal loads (doesn't matter if they don't have DOT on them). If I were to be failed on that, he said to give him a call as well. The inspection sheet that most mechanics have will say that the tires will need DOT but they have since changed it and no longer require it to pass as long as the tires are in GOOD condition and are safe to drive on.
The rear side markers are not needed due to the taillights wrapping around the side.
Hopefully this is useful for those in Alberta.
Right on man, good info.
Here's a nice car that we have available in our Japan stock. It's ready to be imported for a Canadian customer! If it's not ordered within 30 days it will come to Calgary as local stock and be priced at market value.
1998 Toyota Altezza RS200 Z-Edition
-3.5/b/b original auction grade. ( as you can see in the images and auc sheet, there is a dent on the lower passenger side skirt area... it's not super obvious unless you're looking for it.)
-stock matching rims can be provided for a very small extra cost, or they can even be upgraded.
-$5,195 total cleared customs price.
For all your JDM vehicle import needs in Canada,
B-Pro Auto JDM imports
Surrey, BC Canada (willing to ship anywhere at buyer's expense).
$11000 CAD OBO
[I]This is basically what the car cost me on the road (excluding markup on the auction price and excluding repair bills from Canada).[/I]
2JZ-GTE Twin Turbo (280HP same engine as JDM Supra RZ)
Auto with steering wheel sport/paddle shift.
This car is in immaculate condition and the body condition is like new (original paint). It even comes with the original owners manual. Many people do not realize its age and think it is a much more expensive car because of the luxury features and looks. It's a reluctant sale because it doesn't have enough storage space for my family and we've replaced it with a wagon. I'm selling this vehicle for basically what it cost me to import and get on the road. Considering the extras it is a great value and would normally cost nearly $5K to buy and install eg. buy, install and paint bodykit, new rims, new tires, TOMS exhaust, coils + installation labor).
Power Windows (all automatic), Power Seats, Climate Control, Keyless Entry, Keyless Trunk, Tinted Windows.
-TEIN CS Gold (Comfort Sport) Adjustable Height and Damping Coilovers (they come with the wrenches to adjust them). The car handles better than other Aristo's because of these coils and the height and stiffness is completely adjustable.
-Aftermarket 18" rims (G-Square Super Touring)
-Full Body Kit (sideskirts, rear lip, front lip).
-New tires Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric Ultra High Performance All Season Tires
-TOMS Exhaust (famous tuning company)
Good luck with the sale! At least we are all very aware of the history of this car and that it now runs well!
Thanks Steve, yes it is a good car and will be missed. I hope it goes to an active member of the community too.
Looks good Nice seats good luck with the sale!
Hey all. I just listed this Legacy in my local stock. Here are the details on it:
1998 Subaru Legacy GT-B
5 speed manual
2.0L twin turbo / all wheel drive
Factory Mcintosh audio system
Full leather interior
Dual sun roofs
Mods – Exhaust and turbo timer
This car I would put money on is one of the cleanest BH5’s to have been imported. There’s really no flaws on the car at all cosmetically or mechanically. Al servicing is up to date and the car is ready to go.
It’s a VERY rare combination of 5 speed, this color, sun roofs, and full leather. I cannot remember ever seeing another one with all of those features.
Price is $8000.00 and I do have a finance option available if needed and you live in Alberta. Local inspection report available to interested buyers.
Details are here [url]http://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=1255[/url]
Located in Spruce Grove, Alberta.
This is now sold.
So it's looking like I may need a new front right axle and clutch.
I was looking on [url]http://www.driveshaftshop.com/[/url] and it looks like they have a very reasonable price for 2 front axles rated up to 650 hp, anyone heard of them?
As for clutches, anyone know if you can fit an Evo 7/8/9 clutch on a 5/6 if you also buy a 7/8/9 flywheel too?
This might not be too much help but on this link: [url]http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/121023-will-evo-8-clutch-fit-my-evo-6-flywheel.html[/url]
The 2nd post said that an evo 8 flywheel + clutch will work with the evo 6 engine BUT you cannot have an evo 8 clutch with an evo 6 flywheel since it will not work. So what I am guessing is that as long as you get an evo 8 flywheel AND clutch, it should work with the evo 6 engine.
Yes, that's what it seems like from the posts I've read too. Thanks for the link
[QUOTE=Shoxie;86032]This might not be too much help but on this link: [url]http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/121023-will-evo-8-clutch-fit-my-evo-6-flywheel.html[/url]
The 2nd post said that an evo 8 flywheel + clutch will work with the evo 6 engine BUT you cannot have an evo 8 clutch with an evo 6 flywheel since it will not work. So what I am guessing is that as long as you get an evo 8 flywheel AND clutch, it should work with the evo 6 engine.[/QUOTE]
This is my piece for anyone out there that's been looking to import a vehicle through Will at JDM Connection Inc.
I started over a year and a half ago for my search of the perfect right hand drive car. I started as every person probably has and browsed and browsed and browsed hundreds of ad's, websites and even talked with local people who had gone through the process before. I mean the car community here in Nova Scotia is very tight and mostly everyone knows everyone's car's. So when i saw my buddy Devan Porter had gone with Will, and a few others had as well i thought id take a deeper look.
I searched for all the reviews, read all of them, looked over any problems that had happened. But true to everyone's word Will had been very truthful and reliable through out their import process.
So a few months before my 19th birthday i bit the bullet and contacted will, i was delighted to see that he replied so fast to any of my emails, we discussed prices, ways of importing, average costs of vehicles i was looking at. But in Mid April 2014 i saw the right car come up. It was only 14 days after my 19th birthday and i kept telling my self how nice a right hand drive car would be for my 19th birthday present to my self.
I contacted Will and i was told i was not the only person interested in the S15, it was mint as mint can be, almost not a ding on it, just above 70,000 kms, it was an auto which is what i wanted and a auction grade of 4. I got as much info as i could on the car that he had. I sat down for a few days and looked at my financial situation. In the end i decided it was the right car.
I had sent will tons of emails and questions and he always replied, the whole process was easy as can be, he handled all the hard parts and i just filled out paper work and dealed with the money side of things. Their were no problems at all other then a small confusion about the two S15's he was shipping he thought mine had not shipped yet but it had. One was going to me here in Halifax and the other was going to Vancouver. But after figuring it all out, their were not more problems from there on out.
In the end when i arrived at the port to get my car, it was just as promised, mint as can be, like brand new underneath and i finally figured out what aftermarket exhaust it had. It had a Fugimoto exhaust which sounds great. It did have a few scratches and scrapes from shipping but i completely understood coming from half way around the world. Nothing a good buff job cant help, which is happening in a few days here.
All in all i could not complain about anything with Will at JDM Connection, we are repping the company hard out here suggesting it to anyone looking for an RHD vehicle. I am probably going to be starting my search for my second RHD car here soon!
Maritimes first registered Nissan S15
Congrats on the mint S15 and thanks for doing a thorough review. What I appreciate about your kind of review is it's not just a "My Exporter is the best and most honest in the world". The truth of it comes down to the fact your car arrived in mint condition with no surprises and that's what we always like to hear about.
Its all about being truthful. None of this other bullshit
First off, what is octane rating?
Octane rating is how much fuel you can compress in a certain space before it will spontaneously combust. The higher the octane, the higher the amount of compression the gasoline can handle. If a vehicle is rated for 100 octane rating and instead 87 octane is used, then the vehicle will be compressing too much fuel in chamber causing spontaneous combustion which leads to damage. So this is where the compression ratio and good things like that when mapping the engine or ECU tuning come from.
Octane rating at the pump:
RON - Research Octane Number
Calculation for octane number for fuel @ 600 RPM
MON - Motor Octane Number
Calculation for octane number for fuel @ 900 RPM
AKI - Anti-Knock Index
Average of RON and MON (This is used in US and Canada)
Now, how can we know that the gasoline in Canada is up to par for some vehicles made for 100 RON?
In most cases, people will be filling their cars up with the premium/super premium, but are you sure that's enough?
For Petro-Canada, they have 2 options for these type of people. They have 91 AKI (Premium gasoline) and 94 AKI (Ultra-premium gasoline).
For this case, 91 grade gasoline from Petro-canada is 97.2 RON and for 94 grade gasoline from Petro-canada is 101.5 RON.
For Shell, their V-power is rated at 91 AKI. However, their RON is rated at 99 RON.
Theoretically, the 91 AKI gasoline is not enough, however, there are people running 91 AKI on 100 RON tuned vehicles just fine.
This is just to help people who are scared of detonating their vehicles due to extremely low octane ratings compared to Japan. The difference is that in Japan, they calculate their fuel in RON while here, we use AKI. So using either Shell V-power or PC Premium/Ultra Premium should be fine.
I'm not sure on this, but...
From what I understand, people who run their cars at a higher altitude, such as in Alberta/Sask/Manitoba, can run a leaner gas, such as 91 AKI (91 premium) because the air is thiner up here, so air to fuel ratios stay within normal. And people running their cars at a lower altitude, such as Vancouver or the Maritimes, would potentially need to run higher grade gas, such as Petro 94, or Shell V-Power 91 (since you say that Shell's RON rating is greater, despite it being 91 AKI, based on Shell's chemistry I'm guessing??)
Also, some engines seem to be more sensitive than others. I've been running 91 AKI gas here in Calgary for over a year in my EJ20R Legacy twin turbo and it's been fine always, no knock, even at 7000rpm pulls, which don't happen very often mind you. IIRC, when I ran Petro 94, car ran fine as well, just drank it up so fast! Couldn't justify it if the car ran fine on 91 AKI.
Also, from what I understand, detonation is more prone to happen in warmer temps, such as our present summer temps, and also under engine-load. So maybe it's wise to run 94 AKI during the summer when it's hotter?
Does any of this sound right?... :p Anyone else with insight feel free to chime in.
^^^^^^ Everything I just wrote about, I'm not pulling out of my derrière. I feel like I read about this in the past, in regards to altitude (oxygen density) vs fuel grade, and in relation to ambient temperature.
Not sure about higher or lower altitude, but yes, it could mean that it does perform differently depending on the altitude. It all depends on the pressure of the chamber for the gasoline, if in different altitudes the pressure is different, then the detonation will occur at different points. :)
Also, it's definitely nice to hear that someone living in the same city as me is running 91 AKI on a EJ20 engine. :)
Yes, the mixture of Petro vs Shell is definitely different. The main difference is the fact that Shell is using a different hydrocarbon for the lower end of its mixture. So if they use isooctane (100 RON) but use a different hydrocarbon for the bottom end to lower the overall mixture, then the result of the AKI will be different.
Both do not contain ethanol, however, the 94 in Petro does contain ethanol. Ethanol is an octane booster so basically 94 is based on their 91 product.
Edit - Just read that combustion temperature is completely independent of spontaneous combustion compression point so running a different fuel in summer should theoretically make no difference.
Shell V-Power 91 is what I use in NS.
91 is the best rated fuel we get here, too.
I use Mohawk 94oct. with enthonal
car doesnt seem to have power with out the 94+ oct
Ethanol is an octane booster so you are essentially using a 91 with an octane booster. However, my brother who has been researching EVO's told me randomly that he's looking to only use no-ethanol fuel as they can corrode something. Not sure on the basis of this, but someone can probably verify / disregard.