Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports
The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.
Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
- Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
- Car Specifications
- Reviews of JDM Cars
- Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
- Parts and Suggestions
- Engine Information
- Car Maintenance
- Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community. Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.
Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased. There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.
Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry. We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.
This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.
We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.
If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here
. We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.
-- JDMVip.com Team
Other Information About The JDM Car Market
- Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
- Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions.
Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
- Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
- Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
- JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
- Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
- JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
- You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
- We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters
Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:
- Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
- JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
- JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
- JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
- JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
- JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
- JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
- JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero
Hot Regions for JDM Cars
- Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
- Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
- Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
- Africa: South Africa
- Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
- Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.
Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums
My apologizes if i goof up anything on here, first time using this forum. SO as many of you may know B-pro always get good praises and and is the best guy around. My experience as long as a friends was sub par. Now i will state that he HELPED resolve the issues and did take along time for both parties. So I will start with my experience, I was looking for a JDM car and for a long time i looked around for the best importers. B-Pro was always with good praises and lovely reviews form all so my choice had been made to use Brian's services. I settled on a BH5 GT-B, manual the exact car I have been looking for. Grade 4 in and out with around 100k on the clock. So i got through all the paper work and get this process all sorted out. So the first annoying problem was it took 3 months to land my car ( a good friend used JDM connection and took only 1.5 months, ordered after me too arrived first too.) That was annoying to start it off. Durring the whole process lots of e-mails were sent and to my knowledge there was an inspection of all major parts before landing in Canada and if it was a major repair it would be done in japan before delivered or bare minimum i would be informed. (direct import method) . Car lands i get opp...... Brakes are totally gone, tires dry rotted and cracked, alignment is ever witch way but straight.... and best of all no one noted that the clutch was done. I drove the car for very low km in canada and boom its all gone. Now i know you dont need to be super amazing ot go through the car with a fine tooth comb but if the catch point is high the clutch is going and i was not informed. So overall It was not the best importing job, left me with many more expenses and the car should have been looked over more in japan before the car landed. Now B-pro has helped resolve the issue and i am glad that took place but this could have all been avoided and done in japan, saved time, told the costumer and chosen the choice and put it on the total car tab but what has happened has happened and the past cannot be changed. As for my mates experience, he bought an sti from b-pro and then the motor blows up not from his driving so then b-pro takes steps to resolve the issue. also during inspection at he b-pro shop my mate was told his PS is okay but then it completely fails and the whole system needs to be replaced and it was known in japan but not written down. So a replacement motor is found by brian and installed, turns out the replacement motor was in a crashed car that had rolled so the motor was heavily overheated multiple times and seized shortly after. All of these situations could have been avoided in japan if the inspection was actually done and clients were told and had the option to fix it much cheaper, faster and better in japan or import better quality cars. I chose to share my experience i hope it can inform some of you guys looking to import, i know some may not agree but try not to give me too much flack.
Hey my name is Geoff.
Bought a 1992 JDM WRX a few months ago, and I love it. Took some work to get it running good though again. When I got it, it needed a fuel injector, new MAF sensor, also had a bad boost leak.
Right now no drivability issues other then Im not reaching target boost until very late (5100) were before it shot right up to 1 bar. Have a leaking up pipe, Ive read that a leaking up pipe can decrease spool up. Anyways a gasket for the up pipe is being sourced out hopefully fixed on Monday.
Mods done to it.
Rob 440 Tune (1 BAR)
FMIC (C02 Spray)
DeFi Oil Temp, Water Temp, and Boost Gauges
Love the car I see why these cars are so loved by enthusist.
This seems like a very good community and theres lots of great information on it. Glad to be apart of it.
Congrats! Post up some pictures so we can see it :)
[QUOTE]Mods done to it.
Rob 440 Tune (1 BAR)
FMIC (C02 Spray)
Have you dyno'ed this? if not and you ever have the money burning a hole in your pocket i'd love to see what the WHP is with co2 and a fmic on robs 440
I would love to Dyno it, pulls very hard (No Knock) especially in this cold weather before I have had this on going boost issue.
Right now I cant post links due to my post count :( Ill PM you the links
I think you can just copy+paste links connecting to imgur.
You can do that so we can all see. :)
Need some better pictures lol but here she is. I had to put a space right after the HTTP as well
Looks mint, thanks for the pictures.
Where are you located?
Hey guys, Rad on the wifes bh5 started leaking just figured i would let ya all know that the rad from a 2002 impreza 2.0 turbo are a direct fit. Exact same radiator. Same core size and all the mounting tabs are there. If you are in bc Lordco Part number cu2450. List price is around 200 bucks. I have a deep discount and cost was $128
Also we should have a thread for Different bh5 parts that have been confirmed to fit and also their part numbers if possible. anyone want to take charge in moderating a thread like that?
That's awesome news.
I have been creeping around this forum for a few weeks, reading up on all the threads / topics.
From all the information i gathered on this website, along with many others, i will be sharing my experience importing.
InB4 spelling mistakes, i dont fix grammar / dont care.
21 years old, owned 12 cars, mostly Hondas. One RHD Del Sol SIR. If interested, link here.
I do all my own car work, since having my first car.
I LOVE rhd over lhd.
Future cars to mark off my list, Z4, NSX, Delorean, F Type. Manuals only.
I have been wanting to import a car for the past two years.
Exporter : Tony at japaneseusedcars.com (autospecs, more known on driftworks forum)
Importer : N/A
Car : S2000
So far i have sent over the deposit 150,000Yen (1600$Cad)
Asked a few questions, that i could not find elsewhere.
Q: How much inspection do you do on the cars.
A: Visual, and start the engine, cannot drive them, however auction house drive each car, and note in auction sheet.
Q: Do you still see cars that dont have radiation stickers? Or is this no longer a problem?
I have made a chart of price ratios (year / kms / grade / color / price ) that i will be working off.
I am looking at a 1999/(Jan/feb 2000) S2000. In any color but red and black.
Realistic Kms : 110-190.
Grade : 3.5 Min, 4 max.
FOB price: 5000$-7000$ (there have been a few with 150km, grade 4 for 5000$)
[U]Shipping + extras estimates.[/U]
Shipping : 1800$ (still debating on full coverage or not, your imput would be great)
Import Duty (Tax 12% Car + shipping) : 800$
AC Fee : 100$
Port handling / soil inspection / OOP : 300$
Tires / headlights / DRL : 400$ (used tires, borrow headlights for test, 10$ DRLs off ebay)
Extra fees? : 200$
Total on road. 8500-10500$ CAD. I believe i am overquoting on some areas, your comments?
Anyone ever bring in a car with cracked front windshield? I assume its a fail for OOP. chips are fine, as i have seen, worst case i fill them myself for 20$.
ICBC / insurance, in BC the S2000 is only listed from 2000 and up. If i buy a 1999 S2000, will this be an issue? Lady at local insurance wasnt sure.
Any comments, recommendations, would be great.
I will be updating this post as I go.
This is third hand knowledge based on info EvoNorth found on LancerRegister in the UK.
Basically the theory is that hitting fuel cut too much can kill your engine as someone there suffered a failure during fuel cut. Fuel cut should only happen when target stock boost is exceeded AFAIK. I have read Mitsu's are prone to inaudible det that can lead to failure as well.
I think Augustine explained front end and heatshield rust here with his snow covered engine.
I owned this back in Ireland from 2005 till 2010 and regretted selling it the moment it drove away :mad:. It won't be everyone's cup of tea due to the body kit but it was the only kit I ever liked on a Teg. Plus, at the time in Ireland, Teg's were everywhere, so I did it to be a little different :).
It had a J's manifold, Mugen Gen 1 cat back (best exhaust for an ITR in my opinion), Spoon filter, Tein Super Street coilovers, and a few more bits that I just can't remember after a few beers tonight ;).
It made 214BHP and 150 Ft torque with a Dastec chip so it could move when it wanted to :cool:. There wasn't a rattle or sqweek out of it either. Would love one again!
My old Integra XSi. This seen some track time ;)
My old K24 Accord
And finally something non-Honda, my old 1987 MR2
Your old ITR is absolutely beautiful, the kit flows well! Your bhp is pretty decent to nice job. Do you plan on importing another?
[QUOTE=rhdgc8;89224]Your old ITR is absolutely beautiful, the kit flows well! Your bhp is pretty decent to nice job. Do you plan on importing another?[/QUOTE]
If I import something it will probably be a Euro R CL7, although a silver DB8 would be nice :cool:
1995 ej20g Stock everything
I have been looking at new clutch/fly have seen that some people said the 02-07usdm wrx oem clutches/fly will work, others saying only the early 02 stepped fly wheel's will work, With some saying any year will work as long as you get the same year's flywheel.
Just looking for a straight answer before i go and order.
Thanks guys :)
I purchased a Exedy 2002 WRX clutch, fitted perfect. My car already had a lightened Exedy flywheel. I assume the flywheel was also from a 2002 WRX.
I always thought 02-07 will work, but if your not sure just go with the 2002 spec and you should be fine.
awesome thank you so much!
I've been experiencing a strange phenomenon, mainly during the cold months/humid months, but more and more often over the two years I've owned my Legacy. I can literally control the symptom it's weird.
Really hard for me to describe it...
It literally always happens under partial load/throttle/boost (so always in that 3000ish RPM area when the engine is supposed to start making boost), most of the time going up hills or inclines, on the highway when I'm fighting a slight headwind let's say, or accelerating at a slightly quicker than normal pace from a light (most common situations I can give), all those situations when you are maybe going from 15% throttle (I'll call it 'cruising throttle'), to 25% throttle for that slight extra bit of power, but if I take it past that throttle amount to say 35% up to WOT, the howl stops and I hear the turbo spool up and [U]instantaneously[/U] feel the power from the turbo (still primary at this point). But then I can just slightly release some throttle back down to that 25% zone and get that howl to happen again, in and out and in and out :p if that makes sense.
And when in that 'howling zone' I can even squeeze the throttle between 25% 35% and the howling pitch goes up slightly, and I can bring the sound back down a pitch, varying the pitch up and down and up and down as I please, and squeeze it anymore past 35% and it stops and like I said, instantaneously feel and hear the turbo kick in that little bit at 35%. I can literally lock it in that howling zone and fluctuate the howling pitch. I can control the sound/boost leak symptom based on the road conditions mentioned above as I encounter them while driving.
The sound isn't deathly loud, but it's noticeable, even to a passenger if I ask them to listen, if they weren't paying attention. It's not noticeable unless you stop and listen for it, but it's distinct. It sounds like a HOOOOOOOOOOT like an owl, not a whistle, that I can lock in and fluctuate, and make go away if I release throttle or just slightly move past and apply a bit more throttle.
Based on the fact that I can squeeze the throttle a tad more and the sound stops and I instantaneously hear AND feel the turbo kick in, I'm thinking wastegate? Or perhaps the BPV? I do hear the BPV do it's subtle psshhh thing when I shift under boost or shifting or what not, but this sound and symptom generally only comes up during sustained throttle, or as you pass through that boost pressure zone before you get more pressure via 35%+ throttle, and only under load, I can't replicate it parked at home by just revving the engine or anything.
I've done a butt load of internet and various forum research over the last year to see if people get similar symptoms it it's so hard to describe or search for. I'm really leaning to the BPV being shotty as opposed to a wastegate problem though...
It's not a CCHHH CHHH wastegate flutter sound. It's like a subtle howl or hoot, like blowing over the top of a bottle sort of (slightly higher pitch of course).
I don't think it can be my intercooler pipes because I replaced them with a Samco set and the sound happened much before then, and still after upgrading to the silicone set, although it's reduced since replacing the pipes...
I may order a Forge recirc BPV too one of these days, I think the BPV may be the problem, but that's why I'm here to see if anyone has any insight on what it may be based on the symptoms, without hearing it for themselves.
I unfortunately don't have a boost gauge so I can't give actual numbers... Car is a MY98 Legacy BD with the EJ20R in it. Other than that the car is rock solid, no issues.
Also would like to add the sound seems to be coming from the passenger (JDM) side in the engine bay, on the primary turbo side, again, leading me to believe it's either BPV or wastegate related.
I built a boost leak tester(have yet to test it, har har) if you want to try it out (im in calgary as well). You just hook it up to the intake by the turbo and use a air compressor to build pressure. You have to disconnect and cap(have these) a few hoses. Just PM me if your interested, you'll need your own compressor as im returning mine since i need a bigger one eventually.
This is what i built
Here is a list of my other parts for sale:
[U]Cusco Coilovers[/U] - $400 for all 4 including top hats
[U]New complete Scarles Bolt-In FMIC kit[/U] - $500 (cost me $900 including shipping 2 years ago)
After the modifications were made on my car, this kit was no longer going to fit. It was never installed.
[U]Original Front and rear brakes[/U] including pads and attached lines - $50
[U]Original Brake Rotors[/U] - $40 (straight and no warpage)
If you want these to look like new, soak them in a solution of half water, half vinegar overnight. The surface rust will literally wipe off.
I'm looking at buying a 2000 forester. Just wondering if I could get any advice on what to look or watch out for. I don't know much about these vehicles, are they generally reliable, do parts cross over with domestic forester, can you put a hitch on and use it for towing. Thanks
My good friend just picked up and EVO VI T.M.E from mark at brave auto and he seems to have a leaking rad (Where the Plastic meets the aluminium on top) and he was asking me for advice, as im not much of an Evo guy i thought i would get some help on the boards. Does anyone know if the EVO 4 Rad would fit? Also are there any rads someone could recommend? Mishimoto, Koyo? Lastly what would be the best website to purchase from. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
I bought my Mishimoto rad from Cooldirect because they are in Canada.
Shipping was fast, no border delay or duty is much better.
The rad for 4-5-6 is the same.
Also mishimoto has a lifetime warranty even if you crash the car and pop the radiator you can get a new one.
[QUOTE=steveo1115;89127]Also mishimoto has a lifetime warranty even if you crash the car and pop the radiator you can get a new one.[/QUOTE]
This is one of the reasons I went with Mishimoto. There is another thread on this forum where someone spent the money on a Koyo and they basically didn't honour the warranty.
The Mishimoto in the Aristo still holding up ok Steve?
Ya Ryan the mishimoto in the aristo's as great as the day I got it. The cars temp gauge has never been above Half way. Plus it looked so great I had to add a matching Mishimoto intercooler. :p
Thanks for the input guys, I also recommended the mishimoto as they have one in stock on rallysportdirect thats on sale, but recently ive been reading that when compared to koyo, mishimoto has poor fitment aswell as poorer quality. I think i would probably still go for the mishimoto as it is about $100 cheaper.. i dunno its tough to say..
Mishimoto is basically no questions asked replacement. Read this thread on Koyo if you haven't already:
Thanks for the link ryan, He decided to go with the Mishimoto rad in the end.. Thanks for all the help guys, ill throw up some pics when he gets it to showcase the overall fitment as well as the fan shroud fitment just in case anyone runs into this issue as well.
+1 meka always has good tech info on EVO
RyanV makes a good point about Mishimoto they are much better than no-warranty Koyo:)
Just FYI Mishimoto's have leaked on our members too but they honor the warranty no problem last time I heard. I would go non-aluminum if possible.
JDM SiR can your friend join and make a thread here if he hasn't already. The TME 6.5s are classical legends IMHO
[QUOTE=jdmvip;89178]+1 meka always has good tech info on EVO
RyanV makes a good point about Mishimoto they are much better than no-warranty Koyo:)
Just FYI Mishimoto's have leaked on our members too but they honor the warranty no problem last time I heard. I would go non-aluminum if possible.
JDM SiR can your friend join and make a thread here if he hasn't already. The TME 6.5s are classical legends IMHO[/QUOTE]
Yea ill make sure he makes an account asap, I totally agree about the T.M.E's I was tempted to sell the RA and buy the red one that mark had for sale a couple weeks ago.. Im happy I didnt but for some reason i wonder how many of them are left??
Said Car: :eek:Image:
I am glad you did not sell the RA as awesome as your friend's TME is. I have owned my RA for 7 years and never get bored and hope to keep it forever.
If you mean how many TMEs left I am no expert but don't think many at all let alone good examples.
Please stop talking about TMEs, I can't afford to have 3 cars.
They show up on the auctions frequently but are usually R or RA rated cars, and usually not the fantastic livery.
I put this Mishimoto Evo 4/5/6 rad in my VI. Built quality was perfect, all aluminum 1 piece radiator, tig welded, fits in perfectly, just had to cut a bit of my standard upper rad hose, and is freakin thick!!! Think it was $400 after shipping.
I used the stock fan shroud at first. It does fit, but if you have an aftermarket intake there could be an issue with that.
Mine rubbed so I put the fan shroud on the ground and stomped on it a few times. There was over an inch of clearance between fan blades and rad so by bending the shroud in a bit I gained some space.
Eventually I put a slim fan in which is much better.
Myself I trust the aluminum better than plastic. If there is ever a leak, it's easier to weld aluminum than deal with cracked plastic or bonds between it and metal.
Wow thanks for all the input guys, we ended up going with the Mishimoto after reading the thread about koyo not having a solid warranty. Ordered it from Rally Sport Direct..
[U]41st Annual Castrol Radical Speed Sport 2015 will be held this April 17-18-19th in Moncton New Brunswick at the Moncton Coliseum.[/U]
JDMVIP had great success last year so we have decided to enter again for 2015.
If you are interested in entering your JDM vehicle in our booth please let me know.
I would also like to hear your suggestions to make our club display even better then last year. As always there will be awards given out for best club display and outstanding club display. Also individual class awards.
If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.
Haha hell yeah ill be there. Send me a FB message man, so we can some items on the roll.
I don't' have FB but you can PM on here. Thanks
Hey I'm fairly new to the forum but have been a bit of a lurker for a while... Anyway, I imported my Evo 5 with jdmconnection over the summer and everything went smoothly, and I couldn't be happier with Williams service.
I originally had big plans for the car... I wanted 300 whp so I was buying parts like crazy. I bought a boost Controller, gauge, wide band and turbo back exhaust. I have read in many threads on MLR that molding an evo without getting a tune was bad so I was planning on getting a tune after I had bought everything I needed. I left the car stock for about a month because of the fear of modding it unsafely, but I read a thread that said it was OK to put an exhaust on untuned, it's just that you would hit boost cut/fuel cut when it got colder out. So I put the exhaust on... I should have installed my boost gauge and wide band, but I got lazy, didn't want to work on my car when it was cold out, etc... Anyway the car ran fine during the fall, sounded great and I was loving it! When the winter got here and I started hitting boost cut I wasn't surprised or alarmed because I had already read about it... What I didn't know is that when you hit fuel cut it creates an extremely lean condition in the combustion chamber and causes pre detonation and all sorts of stuff... So stupid me wasn't even avoiding it... Long story short, I hit boost cut Sunday morning and the engine went BOOM!!! I got it towed home only to find a nice hole in my oil pan...
So this leaves me in a position of trying to find a new engine. There's pretty much nothing on eBay worth buying, I was recommended to talk to Craig from C and S performance about a full swap from Japan and he quoted me at 4800$ for a low kms swap.... I knew it was expensive but that seems ridiculous... So I found this engine on BC which is from an evo 8
(I guess I'm not allowed to post links till I have 10 posts so just search "evo 8 engine" in auto parts and tires category of kijiji in Bc and it's the only add that comes up.)
I was entertaining a swap from a later evo as soon as this happened (stronger bottom end, better flowing head, easier to flash ecu... A bunch of little things that just improve on the current engine.) after reading up a bit, I learned that it's a straight forward swap. There are only a few things that are different between the cars. The hardest part is that you have to swap over the ecu as well. So this engine interested me initially but I was worried about buying an engine from some random guy on kijiji unseen and getting it shipped to Edmonton. Well I emailed him asking if he has proof of kms, and compression test numbers. He didn't have either but his email signature said that he was grant from tyee imports... After reading some of the threads on this site about tyee, I'm not sure if this credits the add or discredits it... I mean an evo 8 swap on eBay with 100,000 miles is like 3500$ this engine supposedly has only 70,000 kms and is 2500$. Should I go for it? Is there any way to validate my purchase? Are there any other options that I'm missing? Thanks in advance for the help guys. I just want to get my car back on the road!
So you only had full exhaust changed? No other mods?
An 8 engine and ecu would be a great swap.
Yeah just a hks hi power turbo back. There's also a disassembled 4g64 block with a semi ported evo 8 head on kijiji in Calgary. That would be an awesome build but would probably get pricey
I know racing greed in vancouver gave me a very good price on an engine rebuild when I blew a piston ring in my 4g63t. It ended up being more than the car was worth but I bought the car for a grand. If the rod went through the oil pan and not the block it might be cheaper to rebuild, and you would get a fresh engine. Just something to think about. I think they said (it was like 2 years ago) $3000 if I brought the engine in, $4000 if it was in the car.
The funny thing is my 4g63 died from hitting boost cut while going up a huge hill.
Thats definitely a good price! Only problems are that I live in Edmonton, so bringing my engine to them would prove difficult, and I don't really want to take the risk of having to pay them to tear apart the engine only to find out it can't be re built. I'm currently researching getting a 4g64 block with evo 8 head into my evo 5. The block and head in calgary is only 400 bucks but it would basically require a full build...forged pistons, rods, etc. Some guys on Evolutionm have said that their parts list including the block and machine work comes out to around 3000$ So that seems like a fairly economical way to do it, although on an evo 5 I would need to find an 8 ecu and wiring harness as well...plus the cost of labour.
I jumped on the forum yesterday and saw this. I hit fuel cut once when I first got my car redlining third gear and quickly realized it wasn't right, even though I didn't know exactly what it was lol. But I never did it again. Turns out i made a good choice... tough luck.
It's been a year or so since I've poked around here (meaning my rides been running great until recently).
Pretty sure she's over due for a bit of a bigger tune-up (plugs, wires, fuel filter etc...)
Is it pretty straight forward to access and change the fuel filter? Is anyone familiar with this exact model:
1997 Toyota Townace Noah
My plan was to just follow the fuel line and see where it take me - it's just not as ideal working outside in the cold on the snow with small tool selection...
Any tips/general info/encouragement is appreciated!
From my limited experience working with a broker, negotiations seem to work in the way that:
1) Negotiations start at a set amount above the final bidding price.
2) Negotiations cannot be withdrawn.
3) Negotiations are possible within a certain time frame (a day or two).
That is about all I know about it.
I was hoping that some of you more experienced members can give me some advice for negotiations, for example, are there good tactics to use to get the price I want, such as under-bidding by 20,000 yen, and then sending an offer of 30,000 yen more than the final bidding price?
So i built a vacuum leak tester that i hook up to my intake but i have to disconnect and plug my crank case breather hose, purge control solenoid and PCV hose before testing. I know where my PCV is but i cant find the purge or crank case breather hose.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205161[/url] <---- This is the tester i built and here is a quick rundown of the instructions. Is there anything else i should do before testing to make sure i dont blow out a seal?
[QUOTE]1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid, the PCV, the crankcase breather hose, and remove the oil cap
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
Thanks for the help guys.
its a '95 ej20g sorry i forgot that.
I'm after a replacement Nardi STI wheel for my 1997 GF8.
Found 2, so I now have one available if anyone else needs one.
I bought an R33 and the previous owner neglected to tell me that the Koyo tri-core rad is leaking pretty badly.
I was wondering if this sort of thing is repairable. Any of you guys know any local places that would be able to repair this?
Just like the title states, looking for an R33 Skyline GTST left, rear lower control arm.
Local preferred but willing to pay for shipping if necessary.