Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports
The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.
Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
- Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
- Car Specifications
- Reviews of JDM Cars
- Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
- Parts and Suggestions
- Engine Information
- Car Maintenance
- Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community. Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.
Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased. There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.
Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry. We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.
This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.
We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.
If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here
. We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.
-- JDMVip.com Team
Other Information About The JDM Car Market
- Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
- Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions.
Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
- Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
- Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
- JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
- Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
- JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
- You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
- We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters
Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:
- Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
- JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
- JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
- JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
- JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
- JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
- JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
- JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero
Hot Regions for JDM Cars
- Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
- Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
- Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
- Africa: South Africa
- Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
- Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.
Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums
Just curious of anyone knows of any Auction Portal providers? I noticed that many importers and exporters seem to use the same kind of portal but it's white labeled to their logo.
Any information would be greatly appreciated!
Had a no start issue this am on way to work. I have done some searching online but nothing seems to fit and I am pressed for time so thought I would start this thread. Here is a long explanation of the situation:
Car is mint, no rust anywhere you can eat of the engine bay and it has never had an issue..has just purred since day one....it is literally like a brand new car. Went to start this morning and it will only crank over but will not start. The headlights and dash lights do not come on and the fuel pump will not prime. So it is not getting fuel. It does not seem like this is how the Subaru immobilizer system works from what I have read but maybe? All fuses are good, and I can not see it being a bad ground to fuel pump or something like that since everything is so clean and mint...
I have not checked the circuit for fuel pump yet.
It drove absolutely fine the night before...however, I did not just turn it off as usual..when I turned the car off I left the key in the on position a bit...(I was trying to get my baby girl to sleep so I didn't want to take the key out...it wakes her up..go figure)...I left it there for some time and then turned it all the way off and took the key out. I left and did not lock the doors. Then the no light and no start happened this morning.
I know this may all sound irrelevant but it is the only thing that was done out of the ordinary and I keep thinking I shorted out some circuit somehow or activated some security system by having the key between two positions on the ignition???
I have not done all my due diligence yet but wanted to start getting opinions as soon as possible since having this car down is a major problem at present.
I'm sure this is a stupid question, but just based on your "this is the only thing I did differently" bit...Did you rule out a dead battery as the issue?
Yep, Battery is good. The Fuel pump circuit is "off" I read somewhere that the lights are tied into the fuel pump circuit. Makes sense since I have power in the car and interior lights but when I turn key to on I get no dash lights, headlights or that whirring of the fuel pump...and then she just cranks and cranks but no start of course since no fuel.
Have you checked the fuse? Might be loose one that randomly jarred? I've got a loose one that comes out every once and a while. There's a bunch behind your coin tray.
Looks like #13 is the fuel pump fuse.
You know what....I did not check those fuses ..because at 5:30 this am I was a bit of a dummy and looked on the other side (passenger) for the fuses and thought I must have been mistaken in thinking there was another fuse panel...LOL. Will try when I get home tonight.
Haha hopefully it's a fuse (cheap / easy) I remember reading another thread somewhere, guy had issues with the car inexplicably not starting and it was a loose fuse 11?
Yep, behind the coin tray there's a bunch, it comes right out or it's not difficult to remove the entire panel under the wheel for easier access.
Fit for: 02-07 Subaru WRX GDB (04 sti)
Adjustment 2: 24 levels of adjustable damper
Quantity: one set (2 pieces front + 2 pieces rear)
Rear spring rate: 7kg/mm (392lbs/in)
Front spring rate: 9kg/mm (504lbs/in)
Top mounts / camber plates: Adjustable & pillow ball design
Just got my 2000 Subaru Legacy gtb wagon from mardy at amazing auto imports. It has only 35000kms and runs great!
Welcome to the community! Nice to see someone else from Prince George here :)
Reading this review is the exact reason why I hesitate on importation.
Just to be clear, wouldn't an inspection in japan be almost a "no brainer" for someone buying a small quantity of vehicles? (For example an enthusiast buying a single car/two cars).
[QUOTEJust to be clear, wouldn't an inspection in japan be almost a "no brainer" for someone buying a small quantity of vehicles? (For example an enthusiast buying a single car/two cars).
Obviously it isnt, there are always things that come up and nothing is a 100% sure thing, ESPECIALLY buying a 15 year+ car from auction.
I have a lot of experience buying at auction in Canada, its rare to find an auction house that even lets you start a car let alone test drive it... so no its not a "no brainer". Thats the risk you take.
Figured I'd list some of the nicer Japanese made E4 bumpers/kits since having an E4 means you have to work a bit harder at getting parts.
First mine, this is an unknown bumper that was made in Japan and was on an E4 that ended up at the UK at an auto wrecker. I have never found out what it is even after posting pictures on MLR and Evolution Oz. All I know is its my favorite and I paid a bundle having it shipped here.
Varis E4, this kit is still available and is great quality
Veilside DTM, still available through distributors in the USA and direct from Veilside. Literature from them states the arches can take a 315 tire. Really the ultimate in wide.
Evo 4 stock with a splitter, canards and wheel arches
Veilside EC1, if you like the battle type Veilside style this is still available..
TRUTH/J-speed bumper, looks a lot like the HKS Kansai but NOT the same. J-Speed (Marche) has discontinued this bumper but TRUTH still lists it.
TBO front bumper for the E4, still available...
TBO lip, if you like the TBO style but want to keep your fog lights, this is still available...
HKS Kansai, discontinued and hard to find
BOZZ speed, still available for the E4 and if you want to be different, this would be it
One more pic of the HKS Kansai bumper as its commonly confused with the TRUTH/J-speed.....
Also a note. TRUTH E4 bumpers can be hard to find used as they were made for E1,2,3 and E5,E6 so take a good look at what your buying. A real TRUTH bumper will sell at 700-1000 at auction. Im not sure why that is, maybe TRUTH has a long wait time.
The HKS Kansai bumper is also very rare and a real one will command a high price. If you import a car and it has an HKS Kansai bumper on it you are a lucky person.
I've noticed these couple days the rear bushes on the rear diff are shot
also get some clonking when changing gear.
went to a mechanic and he told me is time to change the bushes
anyone know where i can get them ??
can i find parts locally?? from the canadian version legacy??
and i notice there are front and rear, is it worth changing both of these?
by the way .. i have a 99 bh5
I'm pretty sure Whiteline makes those...
I purchased these rods, to use as I managed to damage a rod in one of my motors.
They were packed in a nice sturdy box, that had multiple layers of foam, a sheet, then a layer with cut outs for two rods, another sheet, another layer with cut outs, then a final sheet. The rods inside are wrapped in oil soaked paper, which are inside sealed plastic bags. So the packing is very good, they came clean and rust free.
Link to AMAZON: amazon.com/dp/B00RYGO43C/
Fit for: Mitsubishi 3000GT Base SL Spyder SL Spyder VR-4 3.0 3.0L; Quantity: one set (6 Pieces), Center length: 141.00 mm, Big end diameter: 52.98mm, Small end diameter: 22.00mm Big end width: 20.83 mm, Small end width: 20.88mm
Forged SAE 4340 Chrome Moly Steel for the highest strength and durability, dedicated for RacingŁ¬Full 3D Designed and processed by CNC machine; All big and small ends are finished with SUNNEN honing machine;
Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, maintaining big end bore size and eliminating cap walk; 100% X-rayed, sonic tested and magnafluxed, Multi-stage heat treated, Shot peened to relieve stress; Come with the bronzed bushing suitable for the floating piston pin; Weight tolerance each set rods: +/- 1g;
Come with ARP2000 bolts(contact us for extra cost for upgrading to ARP L19 bolts); Full covered by Manufacture Limited lifetime warranty
maXpeedingrods is also known as Maxspeedingrods
I recently just got a gc8e and the brakes are a bit worn and starting to squeak. Just wondering what brake pads are compatible, and if not what brake pads should I get and from where?
Welcome to the forum, please make a intro.
As for brake components for your GC8, 92 Legacy Turbo is what you will need.
Has anyone have there car throw a cel light then have it go out after turnig it off then start it again ? What happened to me was I went to wash my car shut off the car started it uugghhh cel light came on , drove in washed car started car light was still on pulled out to come home light goes out ?
Never had that happen in the car, but my wife's truck does that sometimes. Apparently, sometimes a CEL can be triggered and depending on what it is it may clear if the condition isn't detected after x many start/run cycles. It may get stored though and be retrievable.
Weird it came on and cycle (starts) only twice and the light went out.
Haven't had it happen in the sube but it happened in my old civic when my gas cap was loose after a fill. Have you tried connecting the black connectors behind the plastic under the steering wheel? If there was a cell the code should be stored?
I will do that , just at the moment I am changing out the stereo.
This summer has been great thus far for getting cars out to meets! It seems that the local JDM Evos are coming out on average from 6-8 cars per meet which is fantastic. Lots of great cars in Edmonton and some great guys to get along with and chat about all things Evo.
This Sunday the "Evolution Theory" JDM guys attended a car show at Westside Mitsubishi and then went for a cruise to take some pics. Lots of fun, however we seem to all own the same color car :confused:.
Need more pictures of the Evo VI! That thing looks pretty nice :P
Great pics! Love the 4th shot.
High Performance 93-01 Subaru Impreza WRX GC8 24 Ways Adjustable Coilover / Shock Absorber at maxspeedingrods.co.uk
- 24 Ways Adjustable Damping Coilover / Shock Absorber Suspension Kits
- Fits: 93-01 Subaru Impreza WRX GC8
Weight : 28.92KG
not sure exactly where to post this but I am setting up a group buy for these ARS cancelling bars.
of course the more people interested the better the price.
What they do is replace the rear steering rack and prevent the rear steering from working.
ARS (active rear steering)
when our car's rear starts to slip, a loud alarm noise goes off and the rear wheels will turn on their own to try and straighten out the car.
only the jdm vehicles have this ARS. you can replace the rear sub frame with one from a lexus to remove this system also.
it is similar to removing the hicas system from skylines I hear.
just post here if interested or you can also pm me. I also have a post up on the www.clubaristo.net/forums.
Been lurking for quite some time now and decided to finally make an account and participate in the forums!
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Evo 5 I imported with Mark at Brave Auto International. Gotta say the whole process with Mark at Brave was completely smooth and have nothing but great things to say about that guy. He's a walking encyclopedia of JDM ;).
I imported my car about two months ago and received it about a month after that. I'm currently going through the process of passing Provincial Inspection (Needs Tie Rods and Brake Booster) and eager to take it on the road!
Looking forward to our future discussions!
Can't seem to post pictures yet, but for anyone intersted in seeing what the car looks like i'll post the URL below!
Welcome to the forum!
Hey everybody, I've run into a bit of an issue.
About two months ago I noticed that my GT-B (BG5) didn't seem so quick, but didn't think too much about it at the time. Since then it's gotten worse, to the point that I'm only getting 0.8 BAR on the secondary turbo. Also, the VOD has gotten rather tremendous. Primary turbocharging seems to work fine though.
I've already serviced the solenoid box and didn't find anything unusual, everything has been cleaned etc. I've gone through all of the actuators on the secondary side too and all seems normal. I did notice there seemed to be a lot of oil in the intake, so I cleaned all of that out and flushed all of the vacuum lines that I could get to.
I'm leaning towards a failed (failing?) secondary turbo at this point as I feel I've ruled everything else out.
I'll be ordering replacement vacuum line and replacing all of it soon, but pressure/hold-testing has revealed no leaks yet so probably not much point, just making sure.
The only thing I've come across is this little fitting on the intake manifold, connected to vacuum line 11. There's no part number stamped. Anybody know what it is? I thought it was a check valve, but it doesn't hold pressure on either side. Filter maybe? I cleaned it out and nothing changed anyways.
If anybody has any ideas on what to check next I'd appreciate any suggestions at this point.
Not noticing any unusual noise from the engine bay?
Nothing unusual at all. The well known piston slap until it warms up, which then is only present under very light load. Can hear the primary spool easily. I've never been able to hear the secondary whistle.
Mmmmm, resistor pill in the vacuum lines?
I've checked for all of them and they [Iare [/Ipresent.
Hmm, really sounds like a vacuum leak....
I thought the same as well, but I've checked everything I can so far and found nothing on the secondary system. I've got work for nine days starting tomorrow so I I'll get my vacuum hose ordered and wait for my next days off to replace it all. Any recommendations for hose?
It seems to be running decently, just not pulling hard like it should be. At least my wife can't call it a $6000 Japanese lawn ornament.
Well the Secondary and Primary systems run off each other if I'm not mistaken.
Though with your primary producing sufficient boost you wouldn't really think it has to do with those lines, but it probably wouldn't hurt to bring it to a shop and have them do a leak detection test on the system.
You'd think if your Turbo was blowing you'd have smoking coming from the rear / your turbo bearing would be shot which would make a noise..
I just ordered some 4mm vac line of ebay. Vibrant has a pit kit that has good quality line too, along with some bigger stuff for the connectors. I think the ebay seller I ordered from was called TTFitting. Seems to be good quality stuff and pretty easy on the wallet too.
You said you checked the actuators and they are all working, correct? What about the supercharged pressure relief valve? Have you checked to see if it is working correctly / the hoses connecting to it are in good condition etc?
Have you taken the intercooler off and checked the intake pipes?
Another thing to try - have connected the black plugs and green plugs underneath the steering wheel together? This puts the car in diagnostic mode - all the solenoids / fans will cycle, you can see if the actuators are working and the solenoids should be clicking.
Something else to check - The banjo bolt on the secondary side. Follow the metal oil feed line from the turbo back to the head, pull that bolt that holds it on. Careful, there's two copper washers you'll need to keep that could easily fall off as it comes out. There's a filter in this bolt - check if it's clogged. There's a similar bolt on top of the turbo with no filter - check and see if that's blocked. I don't think it's likely that's the problem, but it's worth doing anyways in my opinion.
Hope this helps.
Edit: mine's a BH so there might be some differences. ?
Here's how to check the Supercharged pressure relief valve
post #10 in this thread
Hey guys, thanks for the responses so far.
jsdub1, I figured the relief valve as well and tested it on the bench. To do this I applied compressed air at 20lbs to the inlet side and observed it passing properly, then applied 20lbs to the diaphragm at the same time and the valve closed, so on the bench it works as designed and isn't passing at all.
The black box of doom has been fully tested with the test leads together and all seems to be good there too. I pulled the intercooler and cleaned it out completely as well. That's when I noticed a good deal of oil in the intake end of things. I haven't opened it up since but I don't suspect I'd find much. The car doesn't seem to be smoking at all really and oil consumption has never been a problem (maybe 0.5L over 6000kms).
I'll check the filter in the banjo-bolt fitting when I get on days off, didn't know that was there.
Also, thanks for the heads-up about where to get vacuum hose! I'll probably order that tomorrow.
Still trying to figure out what the little jobbie on vac line #11 is on the manifold, anybody know?
Thanks again guys.
Hey there, sorry you haven't had any luck.
I just thought, I threw code 66 and didn't understand why for a bit, it turned out I had hooked one line in the box to the wrong port. Is it possible the ones going under the inter cooler got mixed up? Not to imply you haven't checked it, I just know I had to compare the box to the diagram about 6 times before it clicked.
If turbo isn't smoking, your banjo is probably fine, but it's something I plan to do as a general maintenance thing anyway.
Is your Bov holding pressure?
It could also be the exhaust gas supply valve. Maybe it's not opening fully? Have you checked the lines from the box to the valve? Could be gummed up.
I think the thing is just a filter although I am not 100 percent sure.
Best of luck.
I did throw Code 66 once, at about 7000rpm, under heavy load, going up Fort McMurray's famous "Supertest" hill, but it had been acting weird already. A quick roadside reset on my way to work and it hasn't put that code up since.
I've been pretty careful to only remove one vac line at a time so far. I'll double/triple check the connections are correct when I get a chance.
Turbo is definitely not smoking.
BOV? I don't have one of those, just two supercharged air relief valves, one primary, one secondary.
As for the exhaust gas supply valve, I've function-tested it and it seems to operate well. The last thing I did was to verify the lines to that are clear by flushing with brake cleaner and blowing down with compressed air, so it's not likely that.
I'm really trying to not have to pull the turbo, seems like it would be a pain in the ass, especially if it turns out to be something else.
Hmm. Never hurts to triple check the connections, lot less work than pulling turbos. I was also pretty careful haha. But I still made a silly mistake. It ended up with me getting code 66 under similar conditions.
BOV I guess it's actually called a relief valve, the one attached to the intercooler. If that hadn't been checked I'd do that.
Have you resolved this problem yet?
Haven't been off work long enough yet. It's looking like it'll be a while.
In the meantime I've ordered silicone lines and am just waiting for their arrival.
Hopefully that fixes it! I had an issue exactly like this last night actually. I was hitting the gas to merge and heard the changeover, but the boost just didn't come back. Did a couple of test pulls and watched my boost gauge after that, was hitting around 14psi primary, drop to around 5-7psi in the VOD and stay there even after the change over. Does that sound like your issue?
It went away though, gave it a couple pulls this morning and it was transitioning fine, probabvly could have hit 16psi if I held it down longer. Only thing I did to try and fix it was ensure the T (for the gauge) I put into line 11 was fitted snug and not leaking.
Engine parts manufacturer Maxspeedingrods is now lanuching "Crowd funding" to benifit customers with more competitive price.
So it is good chance for you to get lowest price E36 Adjustable Camber Plates.
Hey all, just recently bought a 2000 S2000 type V. Super excited about it. Let me know what you think.
Hawt diggity dawg...thats one nice car.
What grade was it?
What grade was it?
Thanks, 3.5 exterior 4 interior
That interior shot looks really clean! Did you import it yourself?
Welcome! I believe we spoke before on s2ki.com. I am the one bringing in the Forester. Thanks for joining our JDM community.
Where abouts is your s2000 now?
Welcome aboard !
rhdgc8;91273Welcome! I believe we spoke before on s2ki.com. I am the one bringing in the Forester. Thanks for joining our JDM community.
Where abouts is your s2000 now?
Yea we did, and it's still in Japan till this weekend. I was hoping it would leave earlier since I'll be moving back to Canada at the end of this month and I'll have to wait longer for it now. How about your forester?
Oh wow ok, I thought it was already on its journey over. I hope you get it before the snow flys, it comes quick lol.
My Forester was in Tacoma Washington as of Saturday.
Very nice car, and welcome to the forums!
I need help with an original model prius. NHW 10 anyone know where i can get an English language manual. And what kind of software diagnostics are needed to 'talk' to the car to find out what the warning lights mean. the Japanese manual says call Toyota. Toyota Canada doesn't have the diagnostics
to find out what the warning lights mean.
Welcome to the forums and congrats on the Prius, I haven't heard of any other JDM Prius's around Canada. Have you checked if the connector is OBDI or OBDII ? If it is a standard OBD port you may be able to use a local scanner.
Hey so just bought a 2000 subaru legacy wagon with 10500kms in great shape with the twin turbo ej206. I was driving it home on the hwy when the car just died...got it towed and the timing belt was chewed up a bit and the cam pulley had melted to the cover.....
Has anyone heard of this happening before? The cam is moving freely and is not seized....so hoping for no bent valves....
Congrats and welcome to the forums! Once you get the belt issue sorted can you post us some pics in a new thread with VB Image Host? I hope the valves are not bent as you say, I have not read many experiences of people with snapped belts in Subaru's at all so I have no idea of the chances. I would think if you were not at very high RPMs and not really accelerating much maybe the chance of major damage is lower.
Just for others who read this did you have any warning signs, funny noises from the engine bay, a slapping/flapping sound etc..?
As for the belt snapping I think that is quite rare for Subaru's and these models. I know it can happen with age but in my experience with JDMs it is usually based more on mileage for the belt to wear to the point you describe. What is the history of the vehicle, eg. what grade and are you sure the mileage was correct (I ask because maybe the vehicle had much higher mileage than you think and this may explain the condition of the belt)?
We had one like you the 99 GT-B EJ206 with about ~55K or so on it and it ran great (actually one of the quietest and smoothest running cars I have seen).
The timing belt actually didn't snap it just slipped because there was no tension after the pulley failed. It sucks i just want the car back! The dealer is being great about covering the costs and he did have the government doc to prove the milage and the interior and undercarriage was like brand new.
I see, actually it seems like it was probably the timing belt tensioner that failed. I have not heard it happen on Subaru's often but lots of people recommend changing it and this is probably why your belt slipped and got chewed up. I'd say the chance of serious damage is less with a slip. Who is your dealer they sound excellent as it seems to just be a case of bad luck? Please do a full review on them when you have a chance.
As long as your dealer is reputable you should be able to trust the documentation but just beware that some forge everything from auction sheets to Dereg and Export Documents whether in Japan or Canada.
I bought the car from Mardy at amazing auto imports. He has been really good so far about it and feels bad it happend...but cant blame anyone these things happen just sucks.....
Well turns out the valves were bent....so Im getting a different legacy the dealer had with 36000k so still low milage. It will be nice to have this all done and over with and hopefully better times ahead with the legacy wagon!.
Oh and before the cam pully failed I didn't hear or feel anything before it happend the car just died and coasted to a stop.
Wish me luck!
If you're getting a replacement from the dealer I would say that your luck is already pretty good!
My brother has been itching for me to import him a Subaru ever since he graduated from high school this June. He has been leaning towards the Forester and the Legacy. Since my fiance and I ended up bringing in a Forester this fall, my brother is set on a Legacy sedan.
Now here is my question. He found this Legacy Blitzen Edition, he is super interested in it. Does anybody have one? or ever herd of one for that matter..
I know they only came in red and the manual transmission is hard to find. Is there any big differences between the Blitzen edition and just a normal B4 Legacy?
I want to make sure I find him a good car and something he wants. We are looking to import this month, so he can have it come winter. His current Type-S RSX is ready to shit the bed also... haha so sooner the better on the Legacy :)
Very interesting I now recall always wanting a B4 Blitzen, it seems to be a special edition model with mainly cosmetic features added and I think a special transmission from what I read.
If you want to be sure it is really a B4 Blitzen get the chassis# and PM it to me or check it in Subaru FAST if you have the right ISO for that era (I have a thread somewhere with links to it all).
Caution about below a lot of stuff about JDMs in Wikipedia I have found to be wrong sometimes:
[QUOTEThe Blitzen model was the result of a collaboration with design house "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_Design_Group"Porsche Design, and featured many unique parts and paint schemes. The wheels, body kit, and interior were all designed by this German group. It also featured an implementation of Aisin Seiki's new sequential automatic gearbox,"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_%28third_generation%29#cite_note-3"[3 the first use of sequential-shifting on a production Subaru model.
A wagon version was made available in 2001 with the EZ30 engine.
The model was refreshed in 2002 with an updated design.
The model was refreshed again in 2003 with the interior designed by Andreas Zapatinas."https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_%28third_generation%29#cite_note-4"[4
Anything that I have read about the B4 Blitzen is exclusively cosmetic upgrades. Just an FYI- I have a local Legacy B4 that I am about to list for sale in Fredericton. Its a 2000 model, silver, 118k, 5 speed, auction grade 4. It has that neat purple/black leather interior. Just throwing that out there!
I think you guys are both correct on the cosmetic updrades only. i could not find anymore info about it.
Yes I have seen it on kijiji, but we are looking to buy one for cheap. They sell really low in Japan, so I am hoping to get him one for under $5000 shipped. Thanks anyways tho.