Unbiased Information about JDM Cars/Japanese Imports
The inspiration for our community grew since 2004 since the rise of imports of amazing Japanese cars from Japan's domestic market (JDM), most of which were previously unavailable in markets outside Japan.
Examples of why people find jdmvip.com so useful:
- Researching JDM Cars, Ask Us Anything and We Can Help
- Car Specifications
- Reviews of JDM Cars
- Importing/Exporting Japanese Used Cars
- Parts and Suggestions
- Engine Information
- Car Maintenance
- Common and Problems and Solutions for
In that time there have been many different websites, communities and of course companies formed to serve the JDM Import Car enthusiast community. Unfortunately since this is the automotive industry, there are a lot of underhanded and dishonest things that do go on when it comes to JDM Cars.
Most concerning of all are communities sponsored by different JDM import companies that ensure negative opinions and information cannot be circulated about their dealings, many hiding under the guise of being an enthusiast site and trying to claim they are unbiased. There are certainly many great communities and importers to serve the needs of the import community but there are perhaps just as many that are waiting to take advantage of unsuspecting JDM Japanese Used car buyers.
Unlike many other communities and sites, we have absolutely no involvement or ties to anyone in this industry. We are individuals who want to get the most out of Japan's finest offerings of JDM Cars and help others do the same.
This site was created first and foremost with the consumer in mind. Our goal is to provide real exciting, unbiased and factual information about the excellent variety of JDM cars available for import.
We hope you enjoy our growing community and the wealth of information it will continue to be for as long as the JDM scene is alive.
If you have any questions about JDM cars visit our Japanese Import Car forums by clicking here
. We'd also like to remind everyone that JDMVip.com welcomes all its members from around the world including government officials and import/export companies to be a part of our site.
-- JDMVip.com Team
Other Information About The JDM Car Market
- Imported Vehicles from Japan are common around the world, not just the UK (United Kingdom), Australia, but Africa, Europe and the Caribbean.
- Canada Imported Vehicles from Japanese Used Car Auctions.
Importing JDM cars from Japan has become very commonplace in Canada.
- Most cars from Japan are sold through "Japanese Used Car Auction" such as USS Nagoya and other auction houses around Japan from Tokyo to Hokaido.
- Japanese Cars for Sale are usually originally purchased from auction houses in Japan such as USS or JU.
- JDM Used Cars are in high demand around the world.
- Enthusiasts and casual owners import japanese cars
- JDM Imports are known for their reliability and value
- You can find JDM cars for sale on jdmvip.com
- We have lists of Japanese Car Importers & Exporters
Most Popular JDM Cars/Japanese Imports:
- Nissan Skyline Cars (R32,R33,R34 GTS-T,GTS-4 and GTR)
- JDM Toyota Supra (MKIII JZA70/MKIV JZA80)
- JDM Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
- JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi,Type RA,STi Type RA (GC8,GDA,GDB)
- JDM Toyota Celica (ST185 and ST205 GT-Four WRC)
- JDM Honda CRX, Civic, Accord, Prelude, Integra
- JDM Toyota Aristo 3.0V/V300 Vertex (same thing as USDM Lexus GS 300+ series)
- JDM Mitsubishi Delica/Pajero
Hot Regions for JDM Cars
- Canada: BC (British Columbia), AB (Alberta), SK (Saskatchewan), MB (Manitoba), ON (Ontario), QC (Quebec), NS (Nova Scotia), NB (New Brunswick), NL (Newfoundland and Labrador), PE (Prince Edward Island), NT (Northwest Territories), YT (Yukon), NU (Nunavat).
- Canadian Cities: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Markham, London, Ottawa, Montreal, Halifax, St. John's, Charlotteown, Yellowknife, Iqaluit.
- Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Trinidad and Tobago
- Africa: South Africa
- Europe: UK (United Kingdom), London, Ireland, Scotland
- Australia/New Zealand: Perth, Sydney.
Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums
Hey just wanted to check if anyone has there eye on any cars available over the winter or spring that become eligable to enter canada. Weather it be a desirable special edition,refresh, or something new
Hey there. So last year I bought my first JDM car, a 1997 STi V3, and I've run into the first problem I've been unable to fix, or really even properly diagnose.
The engine starts up right away, but immediately runs rough. Lots of vibration, slightly variable RPM. When it's warmed up, engine idle can drop quite low, but even still only somewhat variable RPM, from ~300 to ~800.
When I am driving, and this doesn't matter what gear I'm in, how fast I'm going, I have serious power issues. Engines shakes hard when trying to accelerate, especially up hills or just quickly on the level. Less so if keeping in a lower gear than would otherwise be necessary. When running higher RPMs, such as about 5500 in 2nd gear, I hit an abrupt wall where the engine will not accelerate anymore, and makes a loud, low-pitched whooshing sound.
I have very high fuel consumption, and rich exhaust.
I have no CEL, and there were no codes stored in the ECU when I manually checked.
So, here's what I've done.
I figure this has to be some sort of air/fuel problem, googled around a bit, see that some people have fixed this with a different coil pack or spark plugs. so I swapped all those out. Old plugs were a bit sooty. No change in symptoms.
Some more googling, maybe a MAF sensor issue. Take it out, everything looks clean. Pulled the top off of it and resoldered the connections, which did indeed seem flimsy, as per a thread on here which I cannot link to.
No change, but I did get a CEL to come on when I was messing around with it. Doesn't come on, anymore. Car does stall out when unplugging MAF while running.
Swapped out the O2 sensor and knock sensor, again no change.
I did get a mechanic to look at it, but he had no scanner for the JDM computer, so didn't do much. He did check for a vacuum leak, though, and said he found none. This was just a spray test, not a proper vacuum leak test.
So, I'm at a loss for what to try, next. I head into camp next week, and when I come out in a few weeks I have an appointment at a place with a JDM scanner, 350km away from where I live. Anything I should try in the meantime? Any tests I can do to help a diagnosis?
Thanks for reading.
Trying to get my evo 6 regged in Ontario and it isn't going too well. One mto said I need a letter from the mits dealer certifying the vehicle model as the Export certificate does not say "Lancerv/ Evolution / 6" . Is this true ? What have some of you guys done ?
I tried calling couple of dealers here but they wouldn't issue it and ask to call Mits Canada. They asked me to call Mits Japan... etc.
any help appreciated.
I have no idea how it works in Ontario but here in NS it differs from one person you deal with to the next at the registry.
Hopefully you get more help from other members than what I can provide, but doesn't the chassis code help them a little?
Rygar, that goes without saying. They make up their own rules on the fly, at will.
I've never heard of the dealership themselves needing to claim that the vehicle is an Evo 6. I believe that the BoS or deregistration documents of the vehicle should be way more than enough. Why can't you just try another person?
unfortunately the model # listed in the export doc is some random set of digits. Nowhere on the export certificate does it say Lancer or Evo or Evolution or 6. also apparently they need the manufacture date, not the registration date on the exp cft.
What about a pic of the plate in the engine bay with the chassis and (presumably) manufacture date?
Do you have the registration cancellation doc from Japan? That has the chassis code on it as the model number. I don't think it has the manufacture date on it though..
Part out or take the whole thing for 15000. Suspension/tire setup 100% sorted out just needs the motor fixed. Quoted 3500 for rebuild or you can buy new motor for 3500-4000 and swap.
Will only sell the parts after I find the buyer for motor & trans due to limited space in my garage
Low compression due to meth pump failure, motor still ran well when parked, compression test showed 90psi on cylinder 2 and 132-135 on the other 3.
Oldest aftermarket parts on this car are 1 year old, most everything has 2-3k kms on it or lot less.
V9 ej207 67k kms, all gaskets, spark plugs replaced when motor went in 2k kms ago.
Gates racing timing belt water pump, grimmspeed phenolic spacers, intake manifold, throttle body, all accessories and 560cc injectors - 1800$
Vf37 twin scroll turbo with manifold and tomei twin scroll catless downpipe (extended to usdm length by racing greed) and turbo blanket - 1500$
Hallman mbc - 80$
Snow meth kit(700$ new) with programmable controller meth pump is broken - 150$ (new pump 150 on ebay)
Fujitsubo Super Ti 1 piece straight thru titanium exhaust - 1200 perfect condition
Perrin short ram intake - 100$
V9 TMIC - 300$
Perrin pitch stop 50$
Engine harness wiring done by iwire for jdm gc8 ej207 swap 500$
Killer b race oil pan, Killer b windage tray, Killer b oil pick up 550$ alltogether
Stock tranny with 72k kms with kartboy shortshifter and bushings and 07 wrx modified linkage 750$
200 kms exedy hypersingle clutch 750$ fits 2002-2005 wrx and all jdm gc8
2 3 month old axles - 75$ a pop
1 6month old and 1 old old axle - 50 a pop
Rear diff with Whiteline diff bushings - 400$
RCE tarmac 2 currently on 650/550 springs, also comes with a more streetable 500/400 set of springs 1900$
Vorshlag front caster camber plates 350$
Vorshlag rear camber plates 350$
Whiteline anti lift kit 150$
Whiteline 24mm adjustable front sway bar 150$
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar 150$
Whiteline front and rear endlinks 150$
Wheels n tires:
Rota svn hyperblack 18x10 5x100/5x114.3 with with continental extreme contact dw 265/35/18 with 2000kms on them 1500$
Rota svn 18x10 with 4 Hoosier A6, 60 runs 1 corded but also comes with a spare 5th tire 1400$
285/35/18 hankook rs3 3 with 1000km 1 brand new 500$
Cut and welded rear quarter panels filled with seamsealer and cut front to accommodate huge tires(can go as big as 315s)
Oversized 240z flares(25mm wider than regular zg flares)
Seibon carbon fiber hood with Seibon oversized hood scoop 600$
Seibon carbon fiber trunk 450$
Carbon fiber mirrors 100$
Defi boost water oil temp gauges with programmable warnings and event memory 200$
Aem wideband 120$
Oil pressure gauge 100$
850cc injector topfeed dynamic injectors brand new unused - 500$
For sale are a set of 4 stock rims from a 1998 Mitsubishi Evo V. 3 rims are mint and the 4th has some curb rash.
Rims are OZ Racing rims, They are 17" x 8" with a +38 offset. Bolt pattern is 5 x 114.3. No tires on them.
Rims are at my father's house near New Brunswick but I will be home mid-October and driving to Halifax and can deliver anywhere along the way.
Does anyone know what type and p/n for these cars. EJ206 auto.
when I was looking on the uk forums I came across the NGK's PFR6G .... but im sure there are a couple others that will fit as well.
4 NGK PFR7B sitting in my ej208 perfectly. I would assume its the same for ej206s.
Just like the title says, I finally got a total sleepermobile here in the north.
Nice real nice, same color as mine but mine is a 99.
Hey guys I thought I would try and post my car up for sale here as im trying to rally some last minute funds to buy a home. Heres a link to my [URL="http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1005517485&edited=true&posted=true&adActivated=true"]kijiji[/URL] add. If anyone has any further questions please dont hesitate to ask and I will answer them as thoroughly and honnestly as I can!
Make: Honda S2000
Mileage: 107, 500km
Very nice S2000! I can see the local price coming down on them finally now that the JDM models are importable. I bet the local owners will hate us guys :D
[QUOTE=William;86419]Very nice S2000! I can see the local price coming down on them finally now that the JDM models are importable. I bet the local owners will hate us guys :D[/QUOTE]
Thanks Will! Yea i can see that happening for sure.. just like what happened to the usdm 300zx owners.. I truly think I have it competitively priced considering the amount of money I dumped into it. The hardest thing is selling this type of car in a place like calgary! Winter > Summer
I am rebuilding my engine for my EJ20H. One of the cylinders was loosing compression and it ended up being one of the cylinders was "out of round". only thing to fix it is bore out all the holes and upgrade to 92.5 mm pistons.
Problem is, apparently I can not get any piston even relatively close to my OEM pistons in that size in North America. Size being same dish, valve relief, compression height, etc.
I have ordered Mahle 2002 WRX 92.5mm pistons already for my car but the machinist & tuner both said that they won't work for my engine, mainly due to the cylinder head/valve clearance, but also possible change in compression ratio.
So far Mahle & JE Pistons have offered for me to ship them one of my pistons so they could size them and make new forged pistons in 92.5mm from scratch.
Doing this is more than double the price of the 2002 WRX pistons.
Other option is to order HKS pistons from Japan, but we are talking about nearly $2,000 for HKS pistons from Japan.....
Anybody have extensive knowledge/experience with getting 92.5mm pistons for a EJ20H?
I have no experience with this engine in particular but I have ordered custom pistons more than once. For a 4 cylinder application I have paid between 7-1000$ before for a set. The cheapest I found were wiesco forged pistons that cost me 700.
Unless you are doing a high hp build I wouldn't bother with hks or a big dollar piston.
First off, vehicle hasn't landed in Canada yet. Currently in Japan in Mark's storage (highly convenient!), and cannot be legally imported until November 2014.
A bit of history. I first started off in JDMVIP looking to import my very own R33 GT-R, however, that was looking to be quite expensive and since school has taken most of my money, I had to look for a cheaper alternative without compromising on quality / performance. After a few months of annoying Mark, he contacted me with an amazing looking car. After looking through the photos, I liked the car more and more until I caved in and decided to reserve it and buy it.
Mark's overall attitude and service is nothing short of amazing. He was very professional and nice throughout the ordeal. At points, I would evaluate my responses to him and I would think to myself that I would have been really mad if I were Mark. But, in the end, Mark never got mad and I am thankful for that. :)
So onto the car, as stated before, the car is still in Japan so I haven't been able to do any tinkering like many of you have had the chance to (Jealous of you guys).
Manufacture Date: 1999/11 (MY00)
Model: WRX Type RA WRC LTD #14 / 1000
Mileage: 99000 KMs
Some bits I like:
When it lands, I think I'm just going to be driving it 99% stock unless there is something I need to change. First things I want to do is relay the headlights to pass OOP / OPI, and do engine oil change. Maybe even diff fluids. If necessary, tires and brake pads. I honestly don't know what to do other than that so if anyone has any idea, please post what you think I should do.
What I plan to do for the car:
I bought this car for a daily driver. I may change the suspensions depending on how I like the feel of it, however, I do not want to do any modifications really. I'd like to keep the car stock as much as possible. Since I don't want to race in it, I think 279HP is fine. In the future, I may end up getting an OEM 74F (color) V5/V6 STi wing, but I don't want it to be looking too riced out so I will check up on that. I did see someone say on here before: "If it doesn't have a ridiculous wing on it, it ain't an STi". I don't remember who said / had that, but props to you.
Anyway, if you guys want to see more pictures:
I am a fan of keeping things stock (tasteful cosmetic upgrades and improvements to operation are exceptions) so IMO you're already on the right mindset.
And Mark is awesome, glad you got a ride you like. Hope you enjoy it!
Haha, yea. I think small things I want to change is the shift knob to something a bit heavier. I think the OEM Subaru ones are a bit too light, not sure of the exact Xg.
Kind of OT, but how is your EVO? Actually, I will post there so it'll be easier for each thread to stay on topic. :)
In case people don't know, auctions are off for a week. There are still a few on, like yesterday all the Honda auctions were held, and today USS Yokohama, but then they should be off next week. Auctions should resume from next Tuesday.
Inland transport companies are also off all this week, so nothing will move out of the auctions unless moved personally.
Banks are still open all week. Obon is not an official holiday, but most nice companies will give their staff at least 3 days off (Wednesday, Thursday and Friday). My staff are off all this week, and I am writing this from a scuba diving resort in the Philippines.
Thanks for the heads up! I was wondering why the auctions are looking so empty....
August is always time to catch up on paperwork! Hope everyone enjoys their summer break! The Japanese culture sure earns it.
[QUOTE=William;86402]August is always time to catch up on paperwork! Hope everyone enjoys their summer break! The Japanese culture sure earns it.[/QUOTE]
It is the only time when I can take a vacation for a few days. Got some good scuba diving in while being here in the Philippines!
[QUOTE=Sastrad;86416]It is the only time when I can take a vacation for a few days. Got some good scuba diving in while being here in the Philippines![/QUOTE]
Lucky guy :D Enjoy your vacation Steve.
[QUOTE=William;86418]Lucky guy :D Enjoy your vacation Steve.[/QUOTE]
Not so lucky to only have a short few days vacation, but lucky to be here in the beautiful Philippines. I love this place. Scuba diving is some of the best in the world.
I'm trying to buy something from rhdjapan and no one has gotten back to me in a few days, I'm hoping this is why!
I have a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T with the RB25DET engine.
I've noticed a problem that I'm having with the idle. After the car is warmed up and I go for a drive, if I'm stopped at an intersection for example, the car will drop its idle to the point of stalling, then the car will recover and repeat the process again and again (from 900rpm drops to 500rpm or less). This has happened for the past couple of weeks or so, and I remedy it by raising the throttle a bit so it won't 'idle hunt'.
I've read several forums, and cleaned the AAC valve which is located behind the intake manifold near the firewall (Idle Control Valve) with carb cleaner and put it back in. It ran fine the night I did this, then the next morning the problem came back.
I'm thinking the throttle body might need to be cleaned, but not sure.
Any help would be awesome!
Is your car throwing any engine codes while it does this.
Someone with an Evo had a similar problem and it was caused by the BOV. Have you tried checking if yours is a bit too old?
Not exactly same as the Evo issue but definitely look at the BOV.
[QUOTE=Rygar;86429]Not exactly same as the Evo issue but definitely look at the BOV.[/QUOTE]
Also look at all the piping and hoses related to that system.
So I painted my brothers gt4 and the front windshield was cracked so I removed it. I go to call a mobile glass guy today in Edmonton and he says they don't have access to any right hand drive glass.... Is this a thing? The explanation I got was that it won't fit because the glass is not uniform and is curved around the driver side.....
If this is actually the case, what company in Alberta is willing to order rhd glass... Or am I stuck with Toyota?
I have never heard of this being an issue.....
it is an issue with some models, not all, from what I've heard, and I think the GT4 falls into that category.. like my aristo, I've looked into it before, and aparently there is a slight curve difference to the glass, so there is no guarantee it wont crack after its put in, just from the normal flexibility of the car itself..
I'm waiting to hear from Toyota Japan about this. I did my Subaru rhd wrx front glass and had no issue. Maybe this is a Toyota thing.... My initial search shows that there is a color difference in the jdm glass vs the usdm and 2 part numbers. I'm waiting to find out if they are physically different.
This is not an issue. Go to any glass shop and ask for a windshield for the same year celica.
[QUOTE]This is not an issue. Go to any glass shop and ask for a windshield for the same year celica.[/QUOTE]
Have you dealt with a gt4 before? I'm curious how you know this for certain.....
Ive had the same probably with my aristo, i went to glass masters and they gave a great price $300 where everywhere wanted $600 and they had no problem making it fit, even though there was a slight gap on the left side, it actually held up really well.
[QUOTE=Slowboi;86442]Have you dealt with a gt4 before? I'm curious how you know this for certain.....[/QUOTE]
Windshields are sold based on chassis, the ST205 will take the same windshield as any other ST20… celica. Some googling will confirm that. If the chassis is the same the windshield will fit. Any "gaps" in windows are due to cheap chinese made glass, not a different shape to the vehicle. You are correct, the side windows will likely have different coloured tinting to the glass, it's possible that the windshield could differ with a "sun shade" strip at the top, but other than that it will be the same.
So I got a response from Toyota Japan saying that there part numbers for the front glass are interchangeable. The color of the glass and the coatings for different markets are what changes the part number not the actual dimensions of the glass.
I'm going to pick up a windshield today Ill let everyone know how the install goes.
Never seen so many signatures! As usual, sign and share the hell out of it! Almost 45k signatures out of 100k now... 45% there!
Petrolicious wrote it:
Auto media I've found that shared it (apparently the 2nd big push, 1st was a few years ago and we were short a few k sigs from the 25k threshold):
Where is it ?:confused:
u find it yet?
This is my first thread, hope I learn from your experience while I get a better picture on what to choose:). I am currently experiencing the biggest confusion ever: Choosing either a JDM STI 2003 blobeye (White) or choosing an Evo 8 (basic) no specific coloour. While the JDM STi has been mapped to about 360bhp the other evo is still standard, but I heard Evos are cheap to tune and get faster than STi's. I live in Malta, bumpy short distance roads, numerous corners etc. Considering everything driving feel, suspension, reliability, handling etc, for the the long term, which one would you choose between a JDM STI 2003 blobeye and an Evo 8. I appreciate very much your feedback!:)
1) Decide which one you actually like better. Do you like the looks of the Subaru or the Evo more? Which one has more of the pros that you want and less of the cons? Things like this are the most important but are very subjective. Nobody else can tell you what you like; what you like depends on you.
2) Stock for stock, an Evo is usually cheaper to hit (let's say) 350 bhp than a Subaru BUT in this case, the Subaru is already remapped. In your specific case, the Subaru would be the better bang for buck if you are looking at performance mods exclusively. Why? Because it is already remapped and it is one less expensive thing you don't have to spend on your car.
3) Driving feel is almost the same, I think that the Subarus have a bit nicer ride whereas the Evo has a very go kart feel to it.
4) The suspension has different uses (in my opinon); Subarus are great for a nice ride with power behind it and Evos are great if you want to feel the feedback from the car. I think Top Gear put it nicely, 'Evo for the track, Subaru for the ride home' (Paraphrased).
5) Both are reliable as long as you take care of it and the previous owner(s) have taken care of the cars. I've heard more stories of the Subie engines dying out compared to the amount of Evo engines BUT I've heard so many AYC/ACD death stories. Take your pic, both are reliable as long as taken care of properly and both can cost a fortune to keep on the road.
6) Both are great for handling but I think that the Evo has better handling due to its AYC but if it isn't a track car and you don't plan on trying to break lap records, both will suffice.
7) Long term, I like the Evos more but that is mainly due to the personal preference. I love the looks of the Evos moreso than the Subarus but both are great cars. You, honestly, cannot go wrong with either one (it all comes down to personal preference and affinity to a brand).
Conclusion: Choose the one you personally like more based on whatever factors; aesthetics, ride, sound, and etc.
*Everything I've said is subjective and some people may disagree*
Well I'm here ready to get flamed for my opinion but I'm not actually fond of Subaru. Having owned a 4g63 powered car (a DSM) I find their actually airily easy to work on. It's just a standard dohc straight four any shop should be able to work on it. It was actually my first car and where I got a lot of hands on mechanical experiance. While as I hear lots of bad things about working on subaru's. While I have neve actually got my hands on one I know of only one shop around where I live that'll touch a boxer and it's an expensive euro car shop. The best thing to do would be to try to find someplace that can get parts and would work on the car then decide. It sucks to have a nice car with an issue no one can fix.
We have some good Subaru mechanics round here so it wont be an issue.
If I were to pick, I'd take the Evo. The engine handles upgrades rather well, there's more NA aftermarket support, and they are easier to work on yourself...
...And I like Subaru's...
Hey so, my AC doesn't really work. I turn it on and no cold air comes. I imagine there's a leak of some kind and I plan to figure that out soon. When the time comes, does anyone know what type of refrigerant is used with these vehicles?
According to this all imprezza's built after 1994 have r-134a if your car is a 96 (I think I looked at your post history) thats what it should be. Also yes I am very bored :)
I should've posted this thread after I popped my hood, lol. There's a sticker near the headlight that says 134 right on it. It also gives the pressure and amount to fill with.
Another thing I just learned is that the cars that take 134a have a Schrader-valve (similar to a bicycle) whereas the 12a have a different filler valve altogether.
I'm gonna buy Delica from Japan and one of TC requirements is e-code headlights. Delica doesn't have it!!! do you know any auto services who can fix and make it ecode in BC?, Canada??
I'll appreciate your help.
It's not legal to stamp the E / DOT code on headlights as that would be forgery (or whatever it's called, I'm pretty sure it's called forgery).
Best thing to do would be to find another vehicle / model that uses the same headlights as the Delica. Try to find a vehicle that was made in USDM / CDM (Do we even have a Canadian Domestic Market?) so the headlight will be DOT stamped and will pass the OPI.
[QUOTE=Chris Brewell;86373]Hello Guys!
I'm gonna buy Delica from Japan and one of TC requirements is e-code headlights. Delica doesn't have it!!! do you know any auto services who can fix and make it ecode in BC?, Canada??
I'll appreciate your help.[/QUOTE]
Take out the headlights and check the housing for the e-code. I am pretty sure that almost every Japanese car in the last 30 years have had the e-code stamp on their headlights.
Ok people, this is long overdue (work, life, and everything in-between) and not as complete as I want it to be, but I hope this will help people on the fence. ( I will leave this open ended for questions, or if more appropriate I will always be ready for questions in the USA forum, or via PM. If you PM me, I will post the question and answer to a thread to help others.)
My journey to find an exporter and learn all I could about importing my first car started over 5 years ago. I first spoke with Mark in December of 2010, and flooded him with questions, ideas, and different angles I was considering while importing a half cut, to a full car. He was patient, and very detailed with his responses.
There were several times I was ready to import a vehicle, and began the basics with Mark. As a little time went on, I had certain issues arise on my side and had to back off and wait longer. This seemed to happen a few times and I send my apologies to Mark for this. I am glad I waited though, because by the time it was set in stone, the exact year model I had wanted (1989) was available for import.
It began with my deposit, and an eager desire to search day in and day out for my vehicle desired. I got sidetrack a few times waiting for the car I was looking for to show up at auction. Anything I found remotely interesting I contacted Mark and he was very patient and up front with his opinion/breakdown of the cars rating in question. This gave me confidence when it came time to choose the car I did. I wanted a clean car, not perfect, but something nice, inside and out with not much body work to be done except maybe paint in the future. He delivered.
When I found the car at auction, he gave a full rundown and we negotiated the final amount I was willing to spend. At this point, I was ecstatic and more e-mails flew his direction, and I was becoming more impatient with my potential find. Again, he was patient, but around this time he got super busy and was only able to respond at max once a day. This took me off-guard and I was a little nervous at this point. As the auction date came, he sent an email that I had won with my bid, on the higher side. I was disappointed at the time that it had gone for the higher amount(I do not regret this now), but was still happy I had successfully purchased a car.
As time went on, I ran into many issues on my side with customs, and paperwork requirements that had to be tended to before the shipment departed from Japan. At this time Mark suggested a few extra steps be taken while still in Japan so that I might have an easier time at port here state-side when it arrived. He suggested a more thorough cleaning and JEVIC radiation testing. This cost me a small amount as compared to running into issues here state-side where the cleaning cost at minimum was $500~ not including transportation.
All in all, it was a great experience to work with Mark. I think we both learned some things when it came to dealing with shipping to the U.S., but he was patient, and clear when he answered questions and this is what you need from an exporter. I fear that if he didn't do such a great job I might have had the car land in the U.S. and have had been in some trouble with some of the document and bond requirements not being completed. The only thing I wish, and probably Mark wishes, is that he had someone on his same level to answer e-mails so that he was not consumed by them day in and day out.
Great job Mark, and a sincere thank you!
Here is a little clip of the car, and some driving at the end. Stock with the exception of a full exhaust, BOV, air filter, and single piece drive-shaft installed by myself.
[URL="http://youtu.be/3XEcCGJ05hQ"]Youtube Video - JDM Supra[/URL]
Well done on the review! I can't wait to see more RHD cars in the US!
Thanks! Now when I have graduated college I will be in the right place at the right time and will collect myself a Soarer, FD RX7, and a MKIV Supra in the future.
I'll try to keep this short.
I had been looking for a subaru for a few months and seen a ad on Kijiji about a '95 wrx with 44k, This car was won at auction by brian a few days before. When i finally got to meet him he went through all the pictures which were very detailed on the imperfections. Told me about the inspection and how he was having the oil changed before it shipped out. I paid everything and got everything signed off and the date the next ship was leaving. I would email Brian every few weeks with questions and would get a email back promptly, i later found out he was actually on vacation at some point and still responded to my emails during his vacation. He also helped me find a great shop for my OPI which also fixed my rotors and axles for a very reasonable price. I have nothing but good things to say about my experience with Brian and have already recommended him to many others. He will go above and beyond your expectations.
Thanks again Brian, im sure you'll be seeing me again.